G1 Sv Won't stay Running.

[EM JAY]

  I have an 01 with flatslides and the G2 intake swap. The bike  doesn't
start unless I have almost full throttle and then back it off a bit once it
does start. Won't stay running unless I hold the throttle open  either.   My
trouble shooting so far has been to check the plugs, drain the bowls, new  gas >>> adjusted the idle high, and just a general cleaning of the   carbs.   All
to no avail. Battery is charged also. With the tank up while starting it
seems like there is a lot of fuel kind of "misting" from the carbs. Also a  slight smell of oil? Any ideas???

[EX_#76]

  I have an 01 with flatslides and the G2 intake swap. The bike  doesn't
start unless I have almost full throttle and then back it off a bit once it
does start. Won't stay running unless I hold the throttle open  either.   My
trouble shooting so far has been to check the plugs, drain the bowls, new  gas >>> adjusted the idle high, and just a general cleaning of the   carbs.   All
to no avail. Battery is charged also. With the tank up while starting it
seems like there is a lot of fuel kind of "misting" from the carbs. Also a  slight smell of oil? Any ideas???

I am assuming that there are not any misassembled parts in the carbs or wrong cam timing and or carb jetting. 

Check to make sure the orings are not damaged on the intake boots.
Check to make sure both carbs are fully seated in the intake boots.
Check to make sure the intake spicot on the flat slides is tight.
Make sure the air bleeds on the back of the carbs are clean (they look like little jets)
Visually check the carb sync by rolling on the throttle.
Check for a damaged or dirty inlet needle and seat.
Check the float level, Sudco can tell you what your baseline setting should be.

If you can not find anything wrong with the carbs I would look at your cam timing.

Did you remember to rotated the crank counter clock wise 360 degrees before moving on to the rear cylinder?

Did you move your old intake cams to the exhaust side?  That requires adjustable cam sprockets and an exercise in degreeing them in.

Report back with your findings

[SV88]

Guy & EM:  This bike has run very well before so I think that it may be an intermittent issue as opposed to design/installation issue such as cam timing or such.  Flat slides are known to be very finicky indeed.  Try your stock carbs to rule out fuel or ignition issues.    Can the stock carbs be rejetted sufficiently to handle the new cams?
Remember that the weather has changed dramatically so you may be running leaner (colder denser air) which would explain why you have to keep the throttle open so much...

Hope this helps..

[backMARKr]

MMMmmmm....I think it may be the kanooo valve...or possibly the muffler bearings



( I apologize, Mike....it's the end of the day and I have had enough of the children )

[EM JAY]

Thanks will look into today and report back.  

[benprobst]

Did you move your old intake cams to the exhaust side?  That requires adjustable cam sprockets and an exercise in degreeing them in.

Nothing to do with the actuall question. I just like pointing out when Guy is wrong because he beat me last time I raced him, haha. buuuuuuutttttttt, you dont need adj cam sprockets to move the intake cam to the exhaust side you can do it with making/marking the "3" mark in the correct position on your old intake/new exhaust cam.

[resurection]

Checked plugs ?
If you thought bad gas I'd stick with it and replace plugs .
3 or 4 bikes this year just bad GAS,fouled plugs.
Also check petcock diaphram ,and throttle sensor.

Guy
you gota check the cam swap thing it's easy and cheap just one cam.
Alittle strange installing what seems so wrong ,but it works

[resurection]

I believe it ran fine after the swap ,if I'm not mistaken you had the wrong size carbs at first but valley swapped for correct size and it ran very well on Dyno.
Is this the bike were discussing?
I think I know the guys that put it together hhmmmmmm.

[EM JAY]

I believe it ran fine after the swap ,if I'm not mistaken you had the wrong size carbs at first but valley swapped for correct size and it ran very well on Dyno.
Is this the bike were discussing?
I think I know the guys that put it together hhmmmmmm.

Yep, ran great after the carbs were set up, it just started so I don't think it has to do with that.  Haven't had a crash yet this year so there is nothing there either....gotta go with the guys that did the cam swap, I think they have thier shit pretty much together!      I haven't tried "new" plugs but will be picking them up today after work.  So far this year I've been using just the stock #8 plugs...any advantage of using something other if I'm using VP?    Have not checked the petcock, will double check the throttle sensor...(counter clock right?) 

[EX_#76]

Nothing to do with the actuall question. I just like pointing out when Guy is wrong because he beat me last time I raced him, haha. buuuuuuutttttttt, you dont need adj cam sprockets to move the intake cam to the exhaust side you can do it with making/marking the "3" mark in the correct position on your old intake/new exhaust cam.

Well then one good turn deserves another.  Technically I beat you the last 8 times we raced LOL!!!

On the serious side, how do you determine where to accurately place the #3 mark?

Guy

[EM JAY]

Well then one good turn deserves another.  Technically I beat you the last 8 times we raced LOL!!!

On the serious side, how do you determine where to accurately place the #3 mark?

Guy

The method was actually off another forum maybe Svrider.com I think....  Went thru the entire step by step method, pictures too (that was a good thing) on how the lobs and everything should look.   Well, it looked easy for me cuz I just watched....

[EX_#76]

The method was actually off another forum maybe Svrider.com I think....  Went thru the entire step by step method, pictures too (that was a good thing) on how the lobs and everything should look.   Well, it looked easy for me cuz I just watched....

Cool!! thanks man, I'll have a look