Getting Started

[jmickle11]

I am thinking about racing my bike.  I have prior motocross and go kart racing experience.  However, I would like to take my time and get started right.  I've got an '03 ZX6R and just don't get much excitement on the road.  I'm hoping to do track days next year and hopefully try racing late next year or in '05.  Does this sound reasonable?  

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

     Getting started is not really that difficult. I'm guessing that by your location you will be in the CCS Great Lakes Region, which runs many of it's races combined with the Midwest and Great Plaines Regions. Dave Rosno of Visionsports Racing School ( http://www.team-visionsports.com/pages/621754/index.htm ) runs a racing school that goes beyond the others (he goes by Super Dave here on the board). His schools are focused on improving your riding ability, as opposed to just getting you an amatuer license. He is located in Wisconsin and usually attends the Midwest events and is highly respected among those who know him.

     As far as doing track days before begining racing, I don't think it would be necessary in your case with your prior motorcycle and go cart racing experience. I bet you would do very well having past racing experience and would blend into roadracing motorcycles without too many problems.

     Many people will offer advice as to what you need, but the number 1 accepted thing you will definately need is suspension that is correct for your weight and your riding ability. Purchasing the proper weight springs front and rear and either revalving the suspension or purchasing racing oriented suspension componets will probably be the best thing you will ever do to help your racing. Forget all the performance upgrades to the engine at the start beyond a race exhaust, high-flow air filter, and carb. kit / fuel management upgrade (such as a Power Commander). Higher horsepower motorcycles are more difficult to race and more often than not slow down a persons learning curve. Middleweight 600cc bikes such as yours do quite well at most the tracks we race at here in the 3 Midwest regions.

     There are some basic things that are required to get started. Start by safety wiring your oil fill plug, oil drain plug, and oil filter (done by safety wiring to a radiator clamp around the filter). Remove the coolant and replace it with straight water (just don't forget to drain it when it gets cold outside), don't forget the resevoir. The reason for this is because Ethylene-Glycol (anti-freeze) is one of the slickest substances known to man and is really difficult to remove from the track in the event of a spill. Propylene Glycol such as ( http://evanscooling.com/ ) is legal in CCS, doesn't freeze in the winter, and doesn't boil till 370*. Add an overflow tank for your various over flow lines, and remove all mirrors and lights (or better yet get race bodywork) and your basically legal for CCS.

     Many racers will safety wire alot of the bolts for piece of mind and purchase after market front brake lines for better braking feel. Stock brake pads work remarkably well, but most people eventually upgrade to aftermarket ones. A quality O-ring type 520 chain and a couple front and rear sprocket sizes will get you started (ask here and people can offer advice as to what size sprockets for your application). Race tires are a must if you want to do well, they only last so long, and will probably be your biggest expense in this type of racing (next to entry fees).

     The best advice I can probably give you is to stay away for credit cards to fund your racing, massive debt is the common reason people don't last in this type of racing. I personally went that route and had to take 2 1/2 years off to try and get out of that hole, now I pay cash for everything as I go (or if I have to charge something I pay it immediately when the bill comes). Only do what you can afford to do and you will probably stay racing alot longer. I think you should just go for it and you'll probably find that it wasn't that bad to get started!

[Super Dave]

Mike, thanks for the shameless plug...LOL!

I think Mike has the basics.

How far did you go in MX?

I wouldn't even bother with the exhaust or Power Commander.

First and foremost, a bike must have correct geometery.  An expert rider should have some ability to figure this out over time.  What will it do?  There aren't many "true" road race bikes.  You start with a street bike now.  The dynamics are there, but they are put together with components that allow most people in the street enviornment to use them.  On a race track things become different.  The bike gets loaded a different way because you have more traction on the track, mostly because you can get racing DOT tires up to temperature.  This load winds up the chassis.  

Often stock bikes don't have enough ground clearance and don't make enough anti-squat through chain torque.  So, the rear shock needs to be longer, either with an aftermarket unit, or by using the clevis on the shock mount.  Your R has one.  How much?  That's where it get's tricky.  

The other reason to do this is because race tires are 70 aspect ratio rather than 60.  So, that's usually a 12mm rise in the front end.  We've got to keep an even balance on the bike.

What happens at the back also effects trail and the feel that one gets from the bike.  

Now you can select the proper spring rates for the bike.  

Yes, a good shock like I use such as a Hyperpro, or others like Ohlins and Penske, do have better internals for better dampening quality.  But you could get away for a moment without them.

Forks are the same way.  You won't replace the forks, but better internals are readily available.  I recommend having a shop that SPECIFICALLY  does road race suspension do it for you, and do it right.  If you do it, or your buddy does it, or your shop does it and it's not exactly right...you might have well left it stock because it will blow and your money is wasted.

Set up is the key.

Geometry?  Easy way to do it is have it measured by a company like http://4and6.com.  They have a device that measures the current geometry of your bike and then they can optimize it to make it where it should be.  One might make some minor changes, but it will certainly put a racer in the ball park.  They have the shock and fork information and parts too.  They are one of the few shops to ever put a privateer rider on the top of the box in first place in a AMA Supersport event.

That help?

[jmickle11]

Wow, thanks for all of the information!  I guess I better start studying!  I figured there was a lot to think about!  At 33 I will most likely not get real serious about this.  I'm just not ready to go play at track days yet.  I've still got a lot of race in me!  I did MX for a few years and did OK.  I raced karts for 3 years and did quite well.  I'll still get in a kart or dwarf car from time to time.  Just getting into sport bikes...that's why I thought I should just do some track days next year.  Anyway thanks for all of the info.  I've definately go a lot to think about!

[Super Dave]

A lot to think about?  Nah, really the most important thing to do is remember that it's all fun...just like MX, carts, everything...

But if you want to be a bit more serious, you now have a real idea of what you'll hopefully need to work on.

Some stuff is not worth spending money on.  And, besides, you've got to ride the bike.  

Track days probably won't get you motivated like race day.  You'll get a feel for it, but it doesn't give you the same kind of race stress that sometimes you need to go faster.

[Xian_13]

...!  At 33 I will most likely not get real serious about this... !

In my opinion...
Suspension... but I think that has been covered ;D
Don't go out with a MW bike. Middle weight is known as the Meat grinder class for a reason. If I could start over, I would start with a light weight bike. The reasons are, tires ($400+ a set.. a MW bike will use up a rear in just over one GT race), on a LW bike you learn to corner better, you have to (Notes a girl  on a 125 @ Gingerman passing a guy on a Gixxer 1000) and Competitions is not nearly as tough... among many other reasons.

As far as the age thing goes... I started when I was 30, when I look around the pits I don't see that many kids around.  But I see a lot of people near my age and older!

[K3 Chris Onwiler]

At 33 I will most likely not get real serious about this.  quote]
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA... HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA....hahahahahahahahahahahah..hehehehehehehehehehe...  Gee, he didn't mean for that to be funny...  HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...  That's what makes it funny!  Poor fool hasn't a clue what he's getting into...
BTW, I started at 35.  HAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

     If you have the money to race and the time available off of work you should just do the basic prep listed, go do Daves school, and just get out there and do your 1st race! After that, what Chris was refering to will take over and you will no longer be able to control your desire to get back out on the track! ;D

[Super Dave]

Good point guys.

I believe the median age for club racers is in the mid 30's now.  Sure, there are some young guys out there, but try affording road racing on your own budget when you're in college or just out.  It is expensive.

And yeah, an SV650 is great for a bike to start with, let alone for just a great bike to race with.

[jmickle11]

I will definately look up your school Dave!  I will be on a budget spending cash only, so I'll have to race my 636 and I really don't want to go back to a two stroke.  Although I did enjoy watching the 250's run at the AMA at Barber.  As far as changing the bike goes, I do have an M4 high mount slip on pipe on its way.  But that's about all I plan right now.  I'd rather learn to race the bike right now, maybe later will I worry about aftermarket suspension and brakes.  

[Xian_13]

...  I'd rather learn to race the bike right now, maybe later will I worry about aftermarket suspension and brakes.  

Stock Suspension could cause you to crash...
Most bikes out of Japan are sprung for a 150 pound rider (with gear on). Bottom out the suspension and who knows what is going to happen.
IMO learn to ride a bike that is setup right, right away. that way you have a better grasp of what the bike is doing under you.

Myself, I race on strictly a Cash basis also... I am afraid of the debt I would ring up if I didn't do it that way!  :o
And trust me when I say I am tempted to go out and buy a new bike, while taking a loan out on it...

[Super Dave]

Stock Suspension could cause you to crash...
Most bikes out of Japan are sprung for a 150 pound rider (with gear on). Bottom out the suspension and who knows what is going to happen.
IMO learn to ride a bike that is setup right, right away. that way you have a better grasp of what the bike is doing under you.

Ah, read my thing above.  The geometry is key.  The thing works a certain way with the componentry in a certain geometry.  Change the rear ride height, the location of the swingarm pivot changes and affects anti squat.  Makes the spring work differently.  

I had stock internals in my R6 until the end of August.  Still the stock internals were good enough for me that I finished in the top ten in the FUSA races at Heartland Park.  

Dave Ebben ran an R6 with a stock shock for a very, very long time.  Before Blackhawk was repaved, he set the 600 lap record at a 1:13 and some change...with the stock shock.  Set up, set up, set up.  A good bike is not a sum of all it's parts, but it's a function of set up.  

Make more sense?