Brake bleeding question

Started by dylanfan53, April 22, 2007, 09:23:42 AM

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dylanfan53

Could I be working at cross purposes if I bleed from both the upper banjo bolt and the lower caliper nipple?  In other words, could I be just pushing a bubble between the two if I don't spend enough time at one end or the other to get it all the way out?
Don Cook
CCS #53

251am

 Hey Don, I think we've met but never introduced.


Here's what I do for tough bleeds;

tools; Mity Vac and a large ( Veterinary) syringe.

  Pull the master cylinder resevoir cover, use syringe or M.V. to suck out old brake fluid from top of resevoir down to where it is at the bottom of res.. Fill the Vet. syringe with your fresh fluid and push it UP from the caliper bleed nipple, until the fluid in the M.C. resevoir is full. Now, work the magic with the Mity-Vac from the bottom at the caliper bleed nipple, refreshing the res. container on top until clean fluid comes out the bottom.

  If this is a complete tangent from where you had intended for the help to come from, or go to, carry on...     :cheers:

dylanfan53

Thanks, this one's a little mushier than I like it.  No mighty vac in the toolkit so I'll keep going at it after I mash it around a bit.  I have a feeling it needs to move some air up to the master but I might just be less patient than I used to be.
Don Cook
CCS #53

PJ

Maybe try the old zip tie the brake lever overnight trick? Sometimes allows the air bubbles to gradually make their way up through the system to the master cylinder...
Paul James
AMA Pro XR1200 #70
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HAWK

You might try taking the caliper off and holding it so that the bleeder is the highest point in the system and bleed that way. I also like to place a rubber hose on the bleed nipple and submerge it in clean brake fluid so that it is impossible to draw air back in through the bleeder nipple. Also do everything very gently so as not to break any existing air bubbles into smaller, harder to remove bubbles.
Paul Onley
CCS Midwest EX #413

Jeff

To answer your question, YES...  you could easily be pushing a bubble between the two.

If you're still mushy at Topeka, come find me and I'll try to help you. 

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Super Dave

Put a zip tie on it and bring it to Topeka.  Let the road bounce it all around and move the bubbles up and out into the master cylinder.  Let your drive do some work for you.
Super Dave

Jeff

just don't crank the zip-tie super-tight.  it just needs to crack the valve open.
Bucket List:
[X] Get banned from Wera forum
[  ] Walk the Great Wall of China
[X] Visit Mt. Everest

jetspeedz

if you suspect you got any air just drain it and start over... this happend when i was bleeding the new brembo calipers and for the life of me it would still be a bit mushy now matter how much i used the vacuum... so  drained it all out and started over and now its rock solid in a good way... also when bleeding the mc if you just pull the lever in and out it may not get the bubbles stuck in the mc... i found that by tapping it and quick movements helps free up the bubbles...
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dylanfan53

Thanks guys, I rode it around a bit, tied it overnight, bled it again and it's much better.  I prolly would have been better off sticking with one end or the other and being a little more patient.  Can't make Topeka but I'll see you all at BHF in a couple weeks.
Don Cook
CCS #53

Super Dave

We'll donate in your name at Baby Dolls.
Super Dave

proechel539

I always start with a full resevoir and start at the top bango bolt. crack the top bango twice and then do the same at the lower banjo's. Then I will move to the bleader screws after that. Have always had good results like this and brakes are solid. Try it next time, it may help
Darrell Proechel
CCS Ex # 76
02 SV-650, 06 GSXR750
proechel1@comcast.net