Will this pass tech-Newbie ??

[tug296]

Maybe some wire around the hand grips, I find that mine move around while I'm trying to relax, even with the glue.

[tomdavid]

Thanks,

  I did'nt know that the exhaust flange bolts were required to be wired? Also do I have to wire the front brake pad retaining rods??As for the footpegs, I have CFM rearsets.

Some organizations still require that but most don't. I do it because of my lack of faith in technology in general and machinery period  :)

[KBOlsen]

And clip-style masterlinks are fine, too.  The key is that whichever style you use is properly installed.

[Super_KC124]

You seem to have the basics well covered with your safety wiring. Here are some other things to consider:

Figure out some way of either wiring or pinning the front brake pad holding bolts if this applies. You know the ones that run thru a hole in the pad backing and screw thru, then into the caliper body,

Put a small smear of Trim Adhesive on the fork oil drain bolts,

Wire any exhaust flange bolts, especially those at the head,

Run safety wire down the center of the exhaust system springs for insurance,

Make certain that the chain master link is of the peened over type, no clip type master links allowed most places.

I drill and wire the brake line banjo bolts, again, insurance,

Wire your clutch side grip on at the far inside and outside and take the cutoff end of the wire and stuff it into the grip material itself so that you don't nick your hand,

Some folks wire the throttle side as well, but that can lead to a sticky throttle. Make certain that whatever glue or goup you use that this grip is on really good and won't rotate,

You did defeat your tip over switch right?,

Wiring the shift rod clamping bolt is another case of insurance.

If you have the stock folding pegs just make certain they are on, with aftermarket stuff, use clean threads and blue locktite, If you know what " green locktite " is then you know how to use it. gives one that extra sense of security,

You do need to wire the rear axle either thru the cotter pin or with a cowling pin.

Do you race WERA?  ;D

[tshowrench]

Wow, thats a LOT of wiring...

Drains, Filler caps both water and oil, and your grips...

every other bolt is covered under the heading of maintinance... When you take the bike all the way apart after each weekend, you check every bolt, nut and fastener on it...

ZX10R-  I would make sure that the front wheel has been replaced, and keep a CLOSE eye on the engine case above the output shaft of the transmission. There seems to be some issue with cracks and leaking oil....

[spyderchick]

Someone should write a book on this stuff... ;)

Well, Mr. Someone? (they know of whom I speak), when are you going to hop to it?  ;) ;D

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

And clip-style masterlinks are fine, too.  The key is that whichever style you use is properly installed.

     I agree with the properly installed statement, I too use the clip type. I have only had 1 chain failure in 15 years of riding and racing and that was on the street on my ZX-11. That was the original peened masterlink chain that came on the bike new, the chain was not binding or kinking, and yes I had the throttle wrapped around twice when it happened. I believe the chain was somewhat loose and skipped a tooth under hard acceleration and broke. Proper chain slack is important for longer life of the chain and sprockets and also not binding the suspension, but too much is bad too and may result in skipping teeth or jumping off the sprocket.

     I also have heard that the '05 ZX -10's have stopped production because of a list of ongoing problems with the bike. Please make sure you find out all the current issues with that new model bike before you race it, this is not uncommon of a completely new model. I would hate to see you get hurt because of a known problem, just because you couldn't wait to get out on the track. The front wheel issue is very serious and I heard that there are a few other problems that would be bad in a racing situation as well.

     Also if your racing your bike most likely it's not going to be covered for any failures, I found that out the hard way. If your dealer is cool and will do recalls for you even though they know you race it then make sure NOT to sign up for any racing contingency. The reason for this is because they are now requiring your VIN # off the bike, which will end up going to the manufacturer which will then be registered as a raced motorcycle, which means no coverage!   >:(

[tomdavid]

Someone should write a book on this stuff... ;)

Well, Mr. Someone? (they know of whom I speak), when are you going to hop to it?  ;) ;D

The books have already been written. They are:

AC 43.13-1B, The FAA's book on Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices, _ Aircraft Inspection and Repair in accessible form

http://www.faa.gov/certification/aircraft/av-info/dst/43-13/default.htm

 You might have to order this from the feds but try the down links first. It is packed full of incredibly clear and detail descriptions in words and pictures of how to keep aircraft together. In other words, perfect for us, and

Prepare to Win
Tune to Win
Engineer to Win
Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners Handbook

all by Carroll Smith. These are the bibles for race car prep without question. All available from Aero Publishers, Inc, or get them here

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp?GroupID=CSMITH

And, answering the unasked question, why yes I am something of a Nerd and a Pedant :)

Or you can order the last 10 back isues of Road Racing World and Motorcycle technology and follow along with the Army of Darkness as they show you how to prep and then destroy a race bike.

[tomdavid]

Do you race WERA?  ;D

No, I'm just paranoid

[firerider]

As for the ZX-10, I have done over a dozen track days, some of which were open tracks and have never ever had a problem. The bike has been rock solid( even thru one highside crash :o). I have the front wheel on order and it will be here very soon. My dealer is very good to me since I have purchased many bikes from them, so they take care of (problems). Thanks for the info, I'm taking it all in :)

[Jeff]

CCS Tech Requirements.

1.  Rider
2.  Motorcycle with 2 wheels.  Wheels must be round in shape


Go to WERA on the other hand and you'll be safety wiring the rider to the seat and tires to the rims...

[spyderchick]

CCS Tech Requirements.

1.  Rider
2.  Motorcycle with 2 wheels.  Wheels must be round in shape


Go to WERA on the other hand and you'll be safety wiring the rider to the seat and tires to the rims...

You forgot one:if Larry Manor is your tech inspector, amatuers should use only yellow for your number plate. Not school yellow, not golden yellow, not bright yellow. Yellow. Like the crayon.

I think it's the most technical spec in the book.  :o ;) ;D