Suggestions on smaller 6/7 x 12 foot tailors

[Drew424]

Looking for a tailor, in the 6x10 to 7x12 range, hope is my bike, plus option for second when needed,


Any suggestions on make, model, and must have features ? Besides a ramp rear door ;)


Anyone like their trailer manufacturer, or recommend steering clear (South Ga Cargo, American Trailer, etc)


I'm in the Atlanta region.


Drew
3058039158


If you're selling, please call me

[twilkinson3]

I can fit 4 bikes a genny and gear in a 7x12 and pull it with a f250 deisel... you could get 2 bikes in a 6x8, just get pitbull trailer restraints (straps suck)

[RoyHefner]

If towing weight is a concern, check out Aluma trailers.  I have a 6x12 that I'm quite happy with.  They're light weight and good quality, although you will typically pay more than for other brands that use steel frames.

[Cowboy 6]

Looking for a tailor, in the 6x10 to 7x12 range,

That is one BIG dude. How does he hold that little needle and thread?

[Super Dave]

Aluminum framed trailers are sweet (almost all are aluminum skinned).  One would probably see a 30% reduction in weight, but there is certainly a 40-60% increase in cost.  Either way, as you exceed 50MPH, you're trying to move that mass through air, aluminum or steel. 

6x10's are pretty much the most common.  7ft wide will usually make you wider than the vehicle.  More air to move out of the way, wheels will be well outside the track of the tow vehicle too.  Can make some maneuvering harder.  Both will usually have the same axle, but the seven footers usually have the axle rated at 3500#'s, and it might have brakes...which will have to be operated by an electronic brake controller on the tow vehicle. 

Side doors are the shit.  One, you can check to see that everything hasn't shifted.  Two, air movement when you're pitted.  Also, if it's raining, you can decide to not use the ramp to go in and out of your trailer...the ramp will be slick. 

Standard interior heights are usually 5'6".  If it's a great deal on a used one and you can get away with it, it's fine, but it's nice to have a trailer that you can walk around in without hitting your head on things.  Usually, you whack yourself on the back of the head removing the bike and not paying attention.  Usually, you'll see the heights increased in 6" increments.  It isn't a huge expense when you order one or one is in stock with that. 

I prefer trailers where the steel wall studs are on 16" centers rather than 24".  Structure, one, and, two, you've got more opportunities to mount stuff. 

V-nose trailers are popular in that so many claim that they get better mileage, but I've never noticed that to honestly be the case.  There's still a frontal area there that needs to move the air out of the way.  They might be better in a cross wind with the front of the trailer being closer to the tow vehicle.  But, with all that stuff being closer to the tow vehicle, they carry a lot more tongue weight. 

Torsion axles are nice.  They work, they are reliable, and because of the way they are set up by manufacturers, they will keep the deck height of the trailer lower than a leaf spring system.  That keeps the roof height lower which can contribute to economy. 

I like the trailers that use the better Trucklite lighting over the cheaper RV lighting stuff. 

Overall, a trailer is a sum of its parts completely.  A more expensive trailer will use better quality components.  Thicker exterior aluminum (.030 vs .024), aluminum roof vs galvanized, square top roof structure with cast corners over round tops with the roof screwed on to the structure via wood inside the trailer.  Zinc plated exterior screws and tongue jacks vs painted.  Some manufacturers drill holes and put grommets through their frame structure for lighting.  Others blow holes through the frame pieces with a torch.  Spending just a little more can net one a little less irritation in issues with hinges, lighting issues because of wiring, an a little premature rot. 

It's not hard to put two if not three road racers in a 6x10 trailer with some planning.  Going out to 12 feet long isn't bad either as you're not making it wider to move through the wind.  7x12 does change things.  Most 6ft wide trailers are rated at 2990# for their weight rating...that's the trailer weight plus cargo.  The trailer might weigh 900 to 1100 pounds, depending upon the length and some other issues, but the 2990# rating is accepted as being able to carry a capacity of 10% above that for a total weight of about 3290#.  In some states, you won't have to get a license plate for a trailer below 3000#.  Some states are punitive...they are gonna screw you either way even if the trailer was rated for 1000#. 

Flooring is a consideration too.  Treated wood is great, and 3/4" is a little stronger for mounting Strapless Stands, chocks, and other tie down bits.  Walls?  Lots of options.  Some to the cheap luan stuff, and it can be fine, but it won't hold up so well to a bar pushing on it.  3/8" plywood is a little nicer.  You can go with white vinyl walls, but I always just put some semi gloss, self priming bathroom paint on them. 

A 12v light is good...again, for checking the cargo with the side door when you're at a rest stop...or to see if you remembered your rear stand when you're 300 miles away from home. 

So many options, eh?  LOL!  A trailer isn't something buys once.  Needs change, and a decent trailer is a great commodity:  someone, somewhere will give you good money for your used trailer if you decide to go bigger, smaller or even out.  So, if you can find a good used trailer, you're money ahead.  Might use it for two to five years and sell it for exactly what you bought it for years prior.  New one?  Yeah, you'll loose some money, but it's not that much.  Not so much that it's terrifying. 

That give you some ideas? 

Where you're at will dictate what you buy.  Yeah, the Aluma trailers are sweet.  But they are made in Iowa.  So, the shipping plays into that.  An ATC trailer, I think those are made in Ohio, would cost less just for shipping...or your drive to get it.  I've heard of some of the Georgia manufacturers, but I haven't personally seen many up in this part of the Midwest.  I don't believe they are a premium product, but they are decent with the option to go with the thicker exterior skins, torsion axles, radial tires, and things like that. 

Ramp door?  You know, it's a preference thing.  It's easy to load and unload.  But you always have to walk around the ramp door.  The load height on a single axle trailer is probably about 20", so it's not like it's hard to load with a nice ramp that you might have already compared to what it's like getting a bike in a van, truck or whatever.  Additionally, the back doors can be utilized for some hanging storage, and the floor with out the ramp is a nice place to sit.  Also, if you're looking for used, a ramp door is a little more "exclusive" to those that want to just roll something in where the dual barn doors are more common...not to mention that it probably reduces the cost of the trailer by about $300. 

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

I had a checkerboard linoleum floor in the trailer and aluminum tread plate on the ramps, both looked awesome, but both get slippery as hell if they get wet at all (from rain, dew on the grass, spilled liquid, etc). I actually dropped my bike because I pushed it thru the wet grass and 1/2 way up the ramp the tires slid like I was on ice, even walking on either surface with wet shoes or boots can be really slippery. Another bad feature of linoleum is that oil from your tires can bleed into the surface and permanently stain the flooring - my motorcycle tires, generator tires, and my trailers spare tires all left very noticeable stains in the floor. Linoleum can also get cut or tear if something sharp drags across it and a heavy object like a roll around tool box that has all it's weight concentrated into 4 small points can actually work on the linoleum during transport and cause it to get deformed or even bulge up next to the wheels.

When I have my next trailer built I will most likely get the floor coated with something like Line-X truck bed coating, probably gray in color so it doesn't show dirt as bad. Along the lower 2 feet of the walls I also plan on either getting them Line-X coated or have carpeting attached so things like gas cans and spare tires don't mess up the walls like happened to the white aluminum skinned walls I had in my last trailer.

If your getting a single axle trailer buy 2 spare mounted wheels and tires and have a place where they are permanently kept on the trailer. I had a tandem (2) axle trailer (4 wheels), during a trip to Daytona I actually lost a wheel after the wheel studs sheared off then got a flat tire on the return trip home. Trying to find matching wheel studs and bearings for a trailer in an emergency situation can be difficult, not a bad idea to buy 2 extra sets of them when you buy the trailer and have them in an emergency repair kit since they are cheap and don't take up much space.

Also get the largest diameter tires you can get, tires travel farther per rotation as the diameter increases and the wheel bearings will turn slower which should result in longer life from less RPM's and lower bearing temperatures. If you also have the option to get a wheel & axle hub with more wheel studs (for example 5 instead of 4, or 6 instead of 5) I suggest you do that as well. Torsion suspension is also a very nice feature to have.

[gearhead]

I use a 6x12 that I bought used back in '07 and haul 1-3 bikes to the track, a big Honda generator and all our gear with no problems.  It's pulled with a 1/2 ton '06 Chevy pick-up with a 5.3 with the factory tow package and it works great.   The trailer is a V-nose unit which gives me a little extra room in the nose for the spare, toolbox. etc.


Mine has cargo doors which I really like!  I have a high quality aluminum ramp to get the bikes in and out but I use the trailer for other things so having one without a ramp adds in it's utility and as mentioned above allows a little more storage connected to the doors plus the cargo doors make the trailer lighter.


I bolted three rows of E-Track to the floor and have to use straps to locate the bike(s) which can be a pain but we only race once or twice a month so I put up with it.  The PitBull restraint system is much better, I just haven't pulled the trigger.  The E-Track does make it nice to strap down the generator, toolbox and other items, though.  I bought the E-Track at a shop that specializes in accessories for semi's but bought the clamps on E-Bay.

It had a linoleum floor in it when I bought it but I stripped it out immediately for the same reasons mentioned above.  Due to all the glue residue, I covered the floor with 1/4" plywood which got the floor even with the E-Track, then painted it with a gray basement floor paint with sand in it, no problems since.


Make sure whatever you buy has exterior LED stop and brake lighting which really adds to visibility.  I like the leaf spring axles, too.  The ride might be a little harsher but they deal better with less than ideal terrain and twisting like pulling on and off grassy areas in the pits.  The extra bearing package is a great idea!  Mine has the bearing buddy hubs and I probably over grease them, it's part of my pre-travel schedule but I've never had an issue.  I use AMSOIL full synthetic grease in them.

Good luck in your search, a trailer is like a mini garage, they are very personal environments that are constantly being upgraded to individual needs.