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Chain question.

Started by lbk, April 09, 2003, 09:32:51 PM

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lbk

Ok after my Roebling experience with the chain being too tight I decided to remedy that while changing tires.

It had a lot of crud in it, and salt from the trip home. I soaked it in gasoline and it cleaned up nicely, however it still kinked in places and made a horrible noise when letting the bike idle with it in gear. The chain is toast. So how do I go about replacing it? I pulled the master link off just like the days of bicycles. No problem, but what do I need to put the new one on? Is there a special tool or do you simply place the master link then the clip back over the top?

Also what does a chain go for?

Fast4fun

I just replaced my chain. I went with a 520 from did and new sprockets. The chain was 125 and it only comes in 120 link length. You will need a rotary grinder and chisel to get the correct length. Make sure not to go too short, you cant put the links back on. I used a channel lock wrench to fit the master link and the clip just snaps on with the assistance of a needle nose pliers.
CCS Mid West EX #675
Tri 675

tzracer

I have had master links come off of race bikes (with saftey wire and silicone). I only use rivet master links. Some are easier to use than others. I also prefer to use the proper tool for the job, it saves money in the long run. Years ago I purchased the Motion Pro chain tool. It breaks chains, presses on the side plate and rivets master links. ISTR it is about $100, money well spent.
Brian McLaughlin
http://www.redflagfund.org
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2 strokes smoke, 4 strokes choke

tigerblade

I need to get one of those tools or borrow one.  I have a new 520 chain and sprockets to put on my bike but haven't yet.  I personally wouldn't feel safe unless the master link was riveted.
Younger Oil Racing

The man with the $200K spine...

lbk

#4
Actually a friend of mine has the tool, so I'm in luck. Going to go with a DID X-Ring chain and he is going to rivet it for me. Just gotta get it ordered so I can take it down to him next week, before I head to blackhawk next weekend. Why do these things always come up with very little time before the next event? Oh I know why, because I have a ton of them scheduled. :D


Thanks to everyone here for their help, as always it's like radio shack, I have questions you guys have answers.

tcchin

Be sure you get the 520ERV2 and not the 520VM. Also, be advised that LP now carries hard anodized AFAM sprockets, which are very reasonably priced if you sign up with their Team Privateer program.

Thingy

QuoteBe sure you get the 520ERV2 and not the 520VM. Also, be advised that LP now carries hard anodized AFAM sprockets, which are very reasonably priced if you sign up with their Team Privateer program.
Tim, why do you say that you should get the ERV2 and not the VM.  According to the people that I have talked to (Sprocket Specialists), the only real difference is that the ERV2 has gold inside plates as well as the outside plates.  The VM just has the gold outside plates.  I have been racing with various VM chains for 3 years with no problems.  They both have the x-rings.
-Bill Hitchcock
GP EX #13
Double Bravo Racing
'01 Ducati 748

Tuck your skirt in your panties and twist the throttle!

tcchin

The ERV2 is stronger (see http://www.didchain.com/spec.html) and is considered to be DID's racing chain, whereas the VM is considered to be a street chain (see http://www.didchain.com/app.html), whatever that means. From personal experience, the VM tends to wear faster than the ERV2, particularly on high-horsepower bikes.

BTW lbk, *never* clean a chain using strong solvents such as gasoline, and *never* immerse a chain in solvent, particularly if the chain is warm. Gasoline will cause the o-rings to swell and/or degrade and may wash out the lubricant from inside the o-rings, leaving the bushings dry (see http://www.didchain.com/question.html). A warm chain will draw solvent past the o-rings as the chain cools, especially if the chain is immersed in solvent. Always use kerosene (or WD-40, which is mostly kerosene) on a rag and wipe the chain clean. You can use the 'special chain lube' if you like, or you can use what most OEM service manuals recommend, which is gear oil. Personally, I prefer using gear oil because of its anti-wear and anti-oxidation additives, and because it's much easier to clean off than other lubes like PJ1, Chain Wax, RK, etc. Apply the gear oil as liberally as you please, working the oil around the o-rings, then wipe off as much as you can to minimize slinging. Only a light film of oil is all that's required to keep corrosion in check.

MightyDuc Racing

My bike has a DID 520, not sure which model it is...I'm not sure of how old it is, but I have yet to have the slightest of problems with it.  How often should I expect to have to replace it?  Oh yeah...90 hp bike, not a liter bike or anything.  TIA
MightyDuc Racing
CCS AM #944 - Florida Region
Ducati 944 Superbike
www.mightyducracing.com
www.cycletires.com
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Tomahawk Tires, Dunlop, AGV, Superbikes & Ski, SW Medical Supply, BCM

lbk

QuoteThe ERV2 is stronger (see http://www.didchain.com/spec.html) and is considered to be DID's racing chain, whereas the VM is considered to be a street chain (see http://www.didchain.com/app.html), whatever that means. From personal experience, the VM tends to wear faster than the ERV2, particularly on high-horsepower bikes.

BTW lbk, *never* clean a chain using strong solvents such as gasoline, and *never* immerse a chain in solvent, particularly if the chain is warm. Gasoline will cause the o-rings to swell and/or degrade and may wash out the lubricant from inside the o-rings, leaving the bushings dry (see http://www.didchain.com/question.html). A warm chain will draw solvent past the o-rings as the chain cools, especially if the chain is immersed in solvent. Always use kerosene (or WD-40, which is mostly kerosene) on a rag and wipe the chain clean. You can use the 'special chain lube' if you like, or you can use what most OEM service manuals recommend, which is gear oil. Personally, I prefer using gear oil because of its anti-wear and anti-oxidation additives, and because it's much easier to clean off than other lubes like PJ1, Chain Wax, RK, etc. Apply the gear oil as liberally as you please, working the oil around the o-rings, then wipe off as much as you can to minimize slinging. Only a light film of oil is all that's required to keep corrosion in check.


Yeah DanO told me that too, after I already pulled the bone headed move though. Oh well! This is still my learning stage so cough up the cash spent as a lesson of life!  :D