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Desperately need HELP!!!

Started by neff4i, April 03, 2003, 02:23:57 AM

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1999 GSXR-600
Let me start out by saying thanks for looking at my problem. Just looking is appreciated.
Here is the dilema.

I decided to finally take my wheels off to save some dough on tire mounting. Never did it before but shouldn't have been a big deal, right.

Well, following the service manual I get everything off except the front left caliper. I managed to get the front wheel off without taking off the caliper but now I can't get the wheel back on without taking the caliper off.

The reason I didn't take off the caliper is the bolt is "frozen". I could get the top bolt off and the right sight caliper off with no problems.
The right side, bottom caliper bolt head is now rounded and can't get it to budge at all.

I have a track day on Monday and will be screwed out of $185 if I can't get the bolt out and the wheel on.

There is about 4 threads showing on the inside of the caliper.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

I have tried:
Various sockets
Vise grips w/ a rubber mallet
Screw extractor


Sears is advertising a tool on TV that will take any "rounded" bolt off. You could check your local Sears to see if they carry this tool in-store. I believe it's a craftsman product, so it should be warranted just like all of their hand tools. Don't know if it works...but it's worth a shot. You could also cut the bolt off and drill out the remaining "stud" portion. Good luck. It's a b1tch when stuff like that happens.
Alexa Krueger
Spyder Leatherworks
Do or do not, there is no "try".


Thanks!  I am trying it tonight.  Let you know if it works.

Thanks again.


go buy an impact driver and a mallet. Then use a metal file to file some edge to the bolt. then use the impact driver to loosen it. You may have to file the bolt down to a smaller size (like from a 12mm bolt to a 11mm so you can fit a 11mm socket on it)

Impact driver is a must tool to have. Carb slide screws, rusted bolts, it loosens without out rounding the bolt.


Thanks R6Philly.  The metal file/11mm idea is great.  Will try that first.

Here is what I have so far:
1.) Get wife try to help me get the wheel back on, then take it to a pro.

2.) Use a metal file to create flat spots back on bolt.  File down to 11mm.  Use impact wrench.  Pick up air compressor from Walmart for $20.

3.)  Try hammer & chisel, striking the head of the bolt in the counter clockwise direction.

4.) Take a propane torch and heat the head of the bolt of for a minute or so. Keep in mind that this heat is going to transfer to the fork so don't get carried away.
Next let it cool down. The expansion and contraction MAY break the bolt loose. Spray a good penetrating oil on the bolt from both ends being careful not to get any on the pads.
Next tap the head of the bolt sharply with a small ball peen hammer to shock the threads a little. What you want here is a sharp smack, NOT a hard hit!
Put the vice grips on TIGHT! I mean eyes bulging out of your head thinking these things are NOT gonna close tight!
Hopefully you will be able to crank the bolt out at this point.
If it still won't come out, heat it back up and try removing it hot, again being careful not to get teh fork too hot. I'd put your hand on teh fork leg a couple inches above the bolt and if it starts getting uncomfortably warm, STOP!!!

5.) Try a different screw extractor from Ronnie or Sears.

6.)  Step up drill bits, removing the screw material.  Use same size tap & die to clean out the threds.


You might also consider heating the area around the bolt, and the bolt itself using a propane torch.  I had a bolt that was stuck on my Taurus once, and I tried all the solvents.  None of them worked, but once I heated it up, it came right out.


How about you spread the brake pads as far apart as possible (push the caliper pistons in) this will give you enough room to put the rim back on.  

Then you can deal with the screw issue after the track day at your convienace.


ah screw it, who needs a front tire anyway? Just wheelie the thing around the track. Leaning into the turns might be a bit tricky, but hey, it will be entertaining.  ;D Seriously though, hope you get it taken care of.
Alexa Krueger
Spyder Leatherworks
Do or do not, there is no "try".


eh? Not sure if I understand this correctly but you can't put the front wheel back on without removing the calipers?? I never ever remove my calipers when swapping out the front wheel. I remove the front fender.... rotate the fork legs out and remove the wheel. I install the wheel the same way. Give that a go.

MightyDuc Racing

One last resort method you could try is actually tightening the bolt with a breaker bar until it breaks off the head.  Then you should be able to thread it all the way through with the piece sticking out the back side.  Once the head is gone, the tightness will be gone, obviously.  Or you could cut the head off with a burr or cutting wheel....just be careful of the fork!  Good luck.  We've all been there at one time or another.
MightyDuc Racing
CCS AM #944 - Florida Region
Ducati 944 Superbike
Tomahawk Tires, Dunlop, AGV, Superbikes & Ski, SW Medical Supply, BCM


Quote2.) Use a metal file to create flat spots back on bolt.  File down to 11mm.  Use impact wrench.  Pick up air compressor from Walmart for $20.

Air compressor?  You might be confusing the impact wrench for an air wrench.  The impact wrench that was suggested was for the type you pound with a hammer.


WD-40 sucks!
I dont even allow my friends to use it.

Airakrol. is the way to go. Check Farm and fleet.  or a trusted home town hardware store for "The oil that creeps".   ;)This stuff will eat that ceroided aluminum right-now.  And you will wonder why you messed up that bolt and the paint on the fork.  :(   I will give you a toll free number to call to order the stuff direct.

I would think that spreading open the break pads would have worked.
Do you have a center punch?  Or, mabe a socket with a nut stuffed in it that fits the bolt your fighting with (the socket)? Put an extention on that 10mm socket and give a good solid wack at it.  This will do the same thing as a $15- $65 impact driver (stretch the threads)  and should'nt do anything to your existing tools.
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