bodywork lowers hitting pipes 03r6?

[oh344ccs]

I have a small problem.  I just got my new bodywork today, so, of coarse I had to install it.  I am putting the finishing touches on this new bike, parts wise anyway.  I have put an Akrapovic race pipe on it, and when installing the lowers they hit the pipes, at their lowest point.  I tried to adjust for it, but you only have about 1/2" to work with. ???  I would like to cut out the section of the lower that is touching, but then I think I would need a bellypan?  I don't want to have a pipe burning through the lowers and making it fail at tech, because the lower won't hold fluids.  I think it is resting quite heavily on the pipe and I don't belive that heat resistant tape will stop the burn through.  ANY IDEAS???  Bike is an 03 r6.

[rsmith]

I have\had the same problem on my bike.  I tried the heat resistant tape at first but the vibration and slight movement of the bodywork on the bike actually rubbed through it.  I wound up laying in a thin piece of aluminum across the bottom and up the sides a couple inches of the bellypan to create a custom heat shield.  I riveted the aluminum to the bodywork to keep it from moving.  Visit your local home improvement store and pickup a sheet of aluminum from the heating\AC aisle.

Take care,

[twg]

When I was setting up my bike for the racing season, I orderd a set of fairings from Red Racing.  They provide the same fairings as used by the WSS guys.  However, these things were tiny and left no room for any adjustment.  My race pipe was also laying on the lower fairing.  I ended up wrapping the header with heat strip (DEI) and placing a self adhesive heat shield in the lower.  Did it completely solve the problem?  No.  I have to periodically replace the heat shield as it does get cooked.  But my lower fairings has not been burned through.  Good luck !!!

[tzracer]

On my TZ the pipes reat against the bodywork. To prevent burn through I currently use high temp RTV. Note where the pipe hits the bodywork, remove the lower, place RTV in strips accross the area that the pipe is touching (run the strips perpendicular to the pipe). I use stripes of about 3/8" in diameter about 1/2" or so apart. Let it dry before replacing the lower. On my TZ, it lasts more than a season, not sure how long it will hold up on a 4 stroke (not sure of 4 stroke exhaust temps). Cheap and easy to do. In the past I wrapped part of the pipe and used heat shields in the lower, for me the RTV works better.

[chris_chops]

I have to periodically replace the heat shield as it does get cooked.  But my lower fairings has not been burned through.  Good luck !!!

Ditto.  I'm replacing the self adhesive heat shield in my lower about every weekend.  I bought it from LP.  Does anyone know of some more resiliant self-adhesive tape?  When it doesn't burn through, it falls right off, even after thorough cleaning of the fiberglass.

Matt

[TreyBone]

Crank up the bike and let it run for a few minutes. You will see on the bodywork were it is trying to burn through. Then take th lowers off. Cut an oval hole where the pipe was touching. Make the hole big enough for the pipe to protrude out of the lower. Then go to any autoparts store and get a fibreglass repair kit. Lay new fiberglass in the hole and fit it like a bubble on the other side of the lowers. DONE

I had to do that on my old bike

[oh344ccs]

Thanks for all the tips, not sure what I will end up doing yet, but this definetly gave me alot more ideas ;D

[Super Dave]

How did you fix it?

My exhaust hit mine too, so we had to use the stock exhaust with a slip on (a Friday night thrash...)

[oh344ccs]

Dave, I put in an aluminum heat sheild.  Rivited it to the lower, when I installed it I overlapped 2 peices hoping that it would let more heat disperse.  So far I only got the bike on track about 3 laps.  I can see where the pipe hits the lower through the sheild and all.  I called the bodywork manufacturer and told them about the problem, and they said they were just informed about the problem and are making a lower that is supposed to be a little deeper.

By the way, on a Suzuki the oil gallery bolt is a solid bolt, on a Yamaha, it's hollow with an O-ring.  Therefore when you go and drill this bolt it will let oil leak out(hence I only have 3 laps on the bike ???)  I guess I learned to remove all bolts I intend to drill just to be sure what I'm doing.

Did you have any trouble getting comfortable on your bike after riding gixxers?  I felt that the bars were way too far up on the stock clip-on's, but I haven't had enough time to get used to it either?

[Super Dave]

I've thrown a leg over an R6 before, so it really isn't a problem.  When I started racing long ago, I used to ride a bunch of different bikes in one weekend.  I just always learned to adapt.  Then there is all that vintage bike stuff too.

The Yamaha will make sense after you ride it a bit.  Did you get a shock and all for it?

What exhaust system did you use?  Our original exhaust was a Micron system, but it was for an '02.  It fits no problem, but the bodywork won't fit on it.  

[Eddie#200]

I found a nice heat shield at the local hardware store.  If anyone wants to see it, look me up at Road America. ;D

[MightyDuc Racing]

Buy a Duc!       ;D