How to Properly Store a Bike?

[gpstar1]

I'm just looking for suggestions on how to properly store a bike for a long length of time. Right now in this faze of my life I'm lucky if I can get on the bike once a year. Racing is pretty much on hold for right now  , but a track day or 2 might happen. I'll get to the point, my question is, is it adviseable to drain all of the fuel out of the bike or just add stabilizer to it. My SV right now has been sitting for well over a year WITHOUT stabilizer in it should this fuel be drained? It currently has VP C12 in it right now. Suggestions anybody??

[Woofentino Pugrossi]

I just put it on stands, change the oil, fill the tank up (with regular fuel, not racing fuel), shut the petcock, drain the carbs and remove the battery.

As for stabilizer, I used it (Sta-bil) for one winter and never again. That crap sucked ass. Had to remove and drain the tank & carbs, put new gas in and still had a hell of a time getting it to fire. Just filled the tank up with gas other years and it started within 3-4 tries every spring.

[123user]

You can't go wrong by draining the tank, then spraying a little WD-40 inside.  I like to remove the tank and bring it in the house.  Is it carbed or FI, if carbed, drain bowls.  In the owners manuals of my older bikes, they recommend removing spark plugs and squirting a little ATF, then replacing the spark plugs-  In the olden days, it would be recommended to remove valve springs, so they don't "take a set"- 

I think that filling the tank with a non-speciality race fuel (not u4,u2,mr9, etc) is superior to pump gas.  should be less varnishing with a fuel like C12 than Shell 87

[Woofentino Pugrossi]

Problem with storing anything with race fuel is some race blends will do a number on rubber seals and hoses if left too long. Pump gas isnt as caustic.

[Super Dave]

Dunno, I've got a different take on fuel.

Pump gasoline is designed to be consumed in 14 to 28 days.  After that point, it does break down into a lot of different things.

Air in the tank is bad as it will oxidize things in the tank, steel and aluminum, hence the reason why having fluid in it is good.

Some of the more common oxygenated racing fuels are not so good because the compounds do make a mess out of seats, seals, etc.

A simple leaded racing fuel, however, is really designed for longer term use and storage.  When designed and manufactured, there is the recognition that racing is done on weekends, so, fuel will not be used immediately.

My long term snow blower storage has been to use a leaded 110 with some stabilizer, just for extra cushion.

I do also like to use waterless coolants, especially for something like this.  Water's the enemy in this case.  Evans NPG doesn't have any water mixed in, and it's honestly inexpensive compared to some of the watered stuff.

A marine parts book would probably be a good source for an intake spray or something. 

Do all that, then put it on stands out of the sun, and one would probably be in pretty good shape.

[123user]

Yeah, the simple leaded race fuels like Klotz 113, or C12, or Sonoco contain less aromatics and more real gasoline as compared to pump gas (especially premium)  In the long term, the more volitile components in pump gas evaporate at a faster rate, leaving the less volitile fuel and gook.

Again, tank storage with U4, U2, MRX, MR8, MR9, MR10, Klotz Oxy-gas is bad.  Personally, I've noticed the new U4.2 is a little harder on sealants than the older U4.  I have a empty can of MR9 out in back of house.  Its been empty, sitting there for a year.  It still pops and contracts every night.  Now, it looks like a crushed soda can.

Back when I was running U2, you could smell that stuff in any closed space even from a factory sealed can.  When the fuel can evaporate throught the steel can- don't leave it in the tank

[GSXR RACER MIKE]

Back when I was running U2, you could smell that stuff in any closed space even from a factory sealed can.  When the fuel can evaporate throught the steel can- don't leave it in the tank

It's probably actually evaporating thru the plastic filler neck, I have a feeling that metal cover over the plastic is more for tamper resistance than stopping evaporation 100%.

[gpstar1]

Thanks guys for the feedback, it helps. Hopefully one day in the near future and I'll be able to get back to the track.

[gpstar1]

Thanks guys for the feedback, it helps. Hopefully one day in the near future  I'll be able to get back to the track.