GSXR 600 or GSXR 750???

[kl3640]

If you do need the front re-sprung, I would recommend sending them to ThermosMan if you're going to ship them out.  Otherwise, there are often vendors at races (like GMD) who could do it for you there, which would save you shipping $, but you'd be well off to call them and make sure that they have the time to do it for you on a particular weekend.  The advantage to doing it at the track is that they can help you set up the basics (preload and sag, rebound, compression).

However, as people have pointed out, unless you're over 220# then you're OK with the stock front, so long as you set it up properly for preload, rebound, and compression.  I think that GMD will do it at the track for you for something like $50, or you can find someone who knows what they're doing to help you out.  I don't know how heavy the rear spring is rated for, but changing the spring on that if necessary isn't a big deal either.

My experience is that when you do get money to work on your bike, the first thing you should do is suspension, and start with the front.  You'll get the most bang for your buck and it, more than anything else (e.g., engine work), will improve your times.  I had the front done on my 06 GSX-R750 by ThermosMan at Jennings one WERA weekend and it really made a huge difference.  I took them off, gave them to him, and when he gave them back to me I just installed them back in with the top of the forks flush to the upper triple clamp and it was set up very well.  I took it back to him later and everything was just about perfect, so I guess that if you send it to him in the mail that you might have similar results.  I got the 20mm Ohlins (because 25mm was a lot more money and I heard from several very fast guys who use the 20mm that they're great and good enough), and it cost me $700 at the track.

[Super Dave]

However, as people have pointed out, unless you're over 220# then you're OK with the stock front, so long as you set it up properly for preload, rebound, and compression.

I'm going to redirect what you're trying to say about my post. 

If you're 160 or even 190, it's too stiff.  Rate is rate.  Put F150 springs on a WRX, it's gonna suck.  This is an opportunity to figure it out reasonably close and have a decent opportunity to make the bike work right for a very reasonable cost.

Springs MUST be considered as the part of the baseline foundation of set up.  Miss that, and you're just setting things up around wrong. 

Taking preload out of a spring that is too still is going to still make it too stiff.  Similarly, adding a ton of preload to a spring that is way to soft is not going to increase the rate, unless everything some one does is so messed up that the coils actually touch, but then the rate increases dramatically.

[EnvyCycles]

Well my current weight is 220 right now so I guess Im good for now. All I need is a rear spring I guess.
is 220 with the gear on or just my regular weight with out gear?

[kl3640]

I'm going to redirect what you're trying to say about my post. 

If you're 160 or even 190, it's too stiff.  Rate is rate.  Put F150 springs on a WRX, it's gonna suck.  This is an opportunity to figure it out reasonably close and have a decent opportunity to make the bike work right for a very reasonable cost.

Springs MUST be considered as the part of the baseline foundation of set up.  Miss that, and you're just setting things up around wrong. 

Taking preload out of a spring that is too still is going to still make it too stiff.  Similarly, adding a ton of preload to a spring that is way to soft is not going to increase the rate, unless everything some one does is so messed up that the coils actually touch, but then the rate increases dramatically.

Sorry, you're absolutely correct and I should have been clear.  What I meant was that he'd be OK with ONLY changing spring rate and settings IF he is 220# or less, as opposed to revalving or new cartridges, etc., being that he doesn't have the funds for full suspension work right now.  Or that if he's in that weight range (which he is), that he may be able to adjust the stock setup.  If he's significantly over that, then it may need more than just springs to work OK.  Sorry for the misleading post.

And to answer Hustla's question, I believe that total weight is what is considered, including all gear, etc.  If you've lowered the other sprung weight in the course of race-prepping the bike, then that may give you more margin, but probably not much.

[EnvyCycles]

OK guys I picked up an 06 GSXR 600. I bought a Penske triple clicker with a 550 spring.
(The penske guy said for my weight it should be 550).

Since I'm a novice this year I want to race against guys on my experience level (Maybe I can get up front somewhere).

I'm going to Loudon this weekend and I will have GMD help me out setting up the bike.
I will also have RobsDyno tune my bike.

Here are my choices:
Saturday: Nv MW SB, Nv HW Supersport, Nv LW Supersport, Nv LW Sportsman
Sunday: Nv GTO-GTU-GTL, Nv MW GP, Nv Ultralite SB, Nv HW SB, Nv LW Gran Prix, Nv Super Singles, LW SB, Formula 40, Formula 40 Lights

I thought I had the classes figured out but I'm still confused on what I can ride with the 06 GSXR600
Is there a place where they have all the classes with what bikes (Something like Racing for Dummies) LOL

[EnvyCycles]

I just looked at raceloudon.com and I think I figured out what classes I can ride on Sat and Sun.
Saturday: Nv MW SB, Nv HW Supersport, Nv MW Supersport
Sunday: Nv MW GP, Formula 40

Is this correct?

[LilJayRR]

It should be in full gear.. Helmet,leathers,gloves, and boots... anything you will be wearing while riding.