SV Fork hieght setting

[proechel539]

Just want to see where mine are set compare to some others. My forks measure 21mm from the top of the tripple to the top of the tube. Where are your's set?

[EX_#76]

Comparing your fork settings to others is meaningless unless you post your eye to eye length on the shock or the weight bias of your bike.

[Gixxerblade]

Comparing your fork settings to others is meaningless unless you post your eye to eye length on the shock or the weight bias of your bike.

But it does seem like an awful lot though.

[grasshopper]

I agree, 21mm is excessive. I have mine up 5mm rite now. The purpose of this is to make your weight bias correct. Ideally you should have 51% of the weight of the bike on the front wheel and 49% on the rear wheel.

[EX_#76]

But it does seem like an awful lot though.

+1

[Gixxerblade]

I agree, 21mm is excessive. I have mine up 5mm rite now. The purpose of this is to make your weight bias correct. Ideally you should have 51% of the weight of the bike on the front wheel and 49% on the rear wheel.

I am with Grass on this except I think when I had my SV I had 10mm on the front with .95 springs, RaceTech Gold Em's (1 1/4 turn out). 20WT oil, at I think 120mm from the top. I think those were the "magic" numbers for all around 1st Gen SV's but it has been awhile. Bit as far as that 49%/51% I think its more along the lines of 40%F/60%R is what is designed because its the rear that drives ya'.

[dylanfan53]

IF you have a Penske rear you should be 13 7/8" eye to eye on center (don't forget you must not exceed 12mm of thread showing on the clevis to be safe) and you should have 10mm from top of triple to the top of tube (i.e. crack between the tube and cap).  If you have a different rear shock set up ignore what I just posted.

Also, Gold Emulators are not measured from turns out.  The adjustment is how many turns in from first contact.  Turn in for stiffer, 3 +/- turns in from first contact is correct for most depending on weight and is a good starting point.  The emulators are your compression control...mostly.  20 to 25 wt oil to your taste.  You can't buy 25wt fork oil (that I know of anyway) and oil viscosity is not linear.  To get 25wt you have to mix 2 parts 30wt with 1 part 20wt.  The oil viscosity controls rebound...mostly.   Air gap is 120 - 125 mm from top with forks collapsed and springs out.  Don't forget to pump the springs to get the air out.

Oh yeah...and someone who is very fast believes the front/rear should be balanced at 50/50.

...and don't tell anyone else about these settings.  They're a secret. 

   

[Super Dave]

Bit as far as that 49%/51% I think its more along the lines of 40%F/60%R is what is designed because its the rear that drives ya'.

I don't agree with that.  You've got to have a reasonable bias.  The rear must drive, yeah, but the CG moves around like an inverted pendulum.  That bias will move front to rear depending upon what you're doing...On the brakes, long sweepers, accelerating hard.

[dylanfan53]

...and after you've got your settings in the ballpark you can take Dave's school to learn what it all means to your riding. 

[proechel539]

Thanks for the responses I thought 21mm was a little much. Guess thats why I cant keep the zip tie off the bottom triple. I have 120mm air gap and like130mm travel. Thanks for the input.

[Super Dave]

...and after you've got your settings in the ballpark you can take Dave's school to learn what it all means to your riding. 

Ok, no more smites for you...LOL!

[proechel539]

I went with 10mm above the triple and managed to stay off my zip-tie the entire weekend at Summit. Not to mention the bike felt a whole lot better. Thanks for everyones input.