Removing old gasket (material) from engine case. Any better way???

Started by SV88, March 10, 2007, 10:39:18 AM

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SV88

Spent several hours scrapping with screw driver to replace this clutch cover gasket on my old SV which all of a sudden developped a subtantial oil leak on that side - may have had something to do with 4 low sides last year on that side (only 1 while racing in the rain @ BHF).

I've got a month to get this  bike into race trim (SDave's pro school @ BHF) and if it takes me this long to switch gaskets then there is no hope of getitng thru the bike's, trailer and leather (Alexa - I'll be pm you soon) punch list.
Fastsv650/SVR6/Steve sv23
09R6rdrace,13KTM250xc enduro,03SV1000N, 99-02 sv650 project
ret. CCS MW/FL/SE 88  Moto A SSP 881

Super Dave

I use a razor blade.  Be gentle.  Auto parts stores might have a little pad that you can put on a drill that will get it off with out harming the cases. 

Use a little Yamaha Bond or something where the cases come together.  Before puttin' it all together.
Super Dave

tzracer

Don't use a screwdriver. I use a razor blade as Dave suggests. I grease most gaskets to make them easier to remove.
Brian McLaughlin
http://www.redflagfund.org
Donate at http://www.donate.redflagfund.org
 
2 strokes smoke, 4 strokes choke

SV88

Damn cover is leaking still.  Dropped the oil out of the engine this morning, will clean side cover again and check out level with a straight edge.  Think I'm paying for having run the motor for 5 min without cooling to warm it up for the compression check last fall.  The cover appears flat when I lay it down (no rocking).  Hawk suggested puting a light source under it to see where it shines thru.  Bought another gasket.  SDave's pro race school date (4/11) is looming and my list of things to do is not going down.  Will try to make serious headway this weekend between 5 hockey games.
Fastsv650/SVR6/Steve sv23
09R6rdrace,13KTM250xc enduro,03SV1000N, 99-02 sv650 project
ret. CCS MW/FL/SE 88  Moto A SSP 881

Eric Kelcher

I spray until soaked with contact/brake cleaner then use green scrubby (green plastic scrub pad for dishes unsure of real name). This avoids gouges that screwdriver or other sharp might do to surface. If I have to use a screwdriver I draw it backwards to avoid gouging surface. Keep the gasket material wet with contact cleaner. I will also use a little sandpaper if needed but be sure to use with a sanding block or other flat surface.

Be sure to have plenty of ventilation.
Eric Kelcher
ASRA/CCS Director of Competition

SV88

I actually started with the green dish scrubby with goo-gone (adhesive) solvent then went to a ski/snowboards metal scrapper.  Will take it off tomorrow and see what the deal is....
Fastsv650/SVR6/Steve sv23
09R6rdrace,13KTM250xc enduro,03SV1000N, 99-02 sv650 project
ret. CCS MW/FL/SE 88  Moto A SSP 881

K3 Chris Onwiler

I'm going to guess that you've hurt the metal somehow.  First check dilligently for cracks.  Replace a cracked part, or repair it with JB weld.  I remove gaskets with a razor blade, and buzz off the last residue with a cookie wheel, which is basically a scotchbright pad on an air tool.  You can ruin a gasket surface with a cookie wheel, so discretion is the better part of valor here.
If you've somehow damaged the sealing surface, it's time for silicone.  Apply silicone to a new gasket, being sure to lay it down in a smooth, even covering by wiping it with your finger.  Now of course everything should be spotless and dry before you even open the tube of silicone, so once the gasket is buttered up, bolt everything together and let it dry overnight.  Once the sealer is dry, THEN add oil.
The frame was snapped, the #3 rod was dangling from a hole in the cases, and what was left had been consumed by fire.  I said, "Hey, we've got all night!"
Read HIGHSIDE! @ http://www.chrisonwiler.com

tzracer

I tend to avoid using scotch brite type pads. As you use the pad, it comes apart leaving pad material behind.
I do not like the idea of getting scotch brite inside my engine, especially when doing things like base gaskets.
With a little practice, razor blades do a great job without the use of chemicals or damage to the gasket surfaces.
Brian McLaughlin
http://www.redflagfund.org
Donate at http://www.donate.redflagfund.org
 
2 strokes smoke, 4 strokes choke

tomdavid

Locktite makes a product called " Gasket Eliminator " its number is 517. While I have reservations about its ability to eliminate gaskets, a light coating on both sides makes gasket removal a cinch. The stuff just pulls off in a super thin ribbon. It solves the problem of removing old gaskets and maybe seals things up a bit. You can get it at Bearings Inc. and a tube at @ 25$ will last you years easy.

About flat surfaces; go to your local monument maker, the guys that make grave stones. They most probably will have a nice flat piece of granite around that is either a broken off piece or a mistake in engraving and let you have it cheap. I got my 24 x 12 x 1 inch thick piece for free. They are super flat and make very nice surface plates. Look the reflection of small type in the shiny surface and if its is undistorted and mirror like that's about as flat as you'll ever need.

Personally, I never scrape an alloy gasket surface as it is just so easy to screw it up. Besides the surface plate substitute above, you can have success with a 1/4 inch piece of plate glass. Put a piece of good quality # 400 - # 800 wet or dry sand paper on the surface, flood with kerosene and gently sand your bits flat using a tiny bit of pressure in a circular motion. Of course kerosene is flammable so watch it and use glove if you are worried. This will get rid of old gasket material and give a very flat even surface.

my methods and my .02$


bambam

 snap on and some other tool dealers have a green wheel that has plastic or rubber fingers on it that is made just for removing gaskets from alum. parts. each wheel runs about $4 or so and you can put it into a battery drill or air die grinder. you will also need the holder but you can get that from lowes or home depot in the tool section.

jetspeedz

i use a blade... also when putting the new gasket on i hope you used some gasket sealer.. in case you did actually damange the metal and take any off it will fill it with the sealer... sealer on the both sides too
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SV88

Final disposition:

Those of you at HTP got to see my problem up close and personal.  Tony following me on his 250 two stroke was astunded that Suzuki makes a 650 two stroke.  But seriously - I lost two practice opportunities and almost a race before getting it right thanks to Scott Shaffer.  After replacing the inner clutch cover the outer started leaking like a sieve not to mention the water pump.  Scott came thru big time by suggesting that we put some gasket maker paste in the outer cover o-ring groove.  This cured the problem completely - ran 4 more races without losing a drop of oil or cooling water.  He almost regretted it went I came dangerously close to passing him during the first LW SB race on Sat....
Fastsv650/SVR6/Steve sv23
09R6rdrace,13KTM250xc enduro,03SV1000N, 99-02 sv650 project
ret. CCS MW/FL/SE 88  Moto A SSP 881