slipper clutches...

[BRG]

Thanks Bill. I think the discussion is over and thats to bad. This type of thread helps educate us all. Some just are not interested in posting specific info. on topics that will help us all improve, that fine. Funny thing is if you are really interested, all the info. you need is at your finger tips. Its all on the web you just have to look for it...................

If the CCS BBS had more threads like this and people were really interested in helping the discussions would continue. This is why I think the WERA BBS is more informative/interesting, etc.....

Baker

[HAWK]

Jeff,

I can see your points, I can see how the slipper could be of some benifit if you were to be able to downshift an extra gear and not get wheel hop but how much wear does this put on the clutch? How often will I shell out $100 or more on disks? Also, what keeps the engine from over revving if one takes that extra downshift as has been mentioned here?

As far as the turn-in issue I would have much less trouble rolling in enough trottle to negate engine braking than modulating rear brake at the entry point. Most likely the combined result of too many pounds, too many years, and not enough experience to reach the rear brake while setting up body position for the corner.

[Super Dave]

We need to bring back the ANTI-DIVE forks

I raced with that stuff.... :P

[Jeff]

Jeff,

I can see your points, I can see how the slipper could be of some benifit if you were to be able to downshift an extra gear and not get wheel hop but how much wear does this put on the clutch? How often will I shell out $100 or more on disks? Also, what keeps the engine from over revving if one takes that extra downshift as has been mentioned here?

The clutch slipping prevents the engine from over revving on an extra downshift.  Like I said, I can go from 6th down to 2nd with no wheel hop or slide if I do it right.  Could I get the wheel to slide during that transition?  You bet!  But it's easy to go down VERY quick without sliding.

Is it hard on the clutch?  Not really.  I burned through 2 friction plates but it was because of a problem with my clutch.  Yes, your clutch will go quicker, but it's not that bad.  It's not like you'll be replacing clutches every weekend.  I'll go into next season with my original clutch and having used the slipper clutch all season last year (3 races per weekend, it wound up to be like 39 races total plus practices).

As far as the turn-in issue I would have much less trouble rolling in enough trottle to negate engine braking than modulating rear brake at the entry point. Most likely the combined result of too many pounds, too many years, and not enough experience to reach the rear brake while setting up body position for the corner.

Exactly the reason a slipper clutch is a good choice/idea/invention.

Personally, if I had a monstrous attention span and lightning fast reflexes, I could probably do without it.  However, since I DON'T, this gives me a couple tenths of a second of extra thought in each corner and that is well worth the cost to me.

[Super Dave]

All old tech anyway...

" Another interesting internal bit is the sprag clutch that prevents you locking the back wheel when knocking it down a couple of gears with 10,000rpm on the clock (something you do all the time, admit it) there's also a rev limiter that comes in at 10,800rpm to prevent you bending valves with those missed changes (although the six-speed gearbox is a pretty sweet affair)."

Honda had it available on VF750's