Clutches for the SV...

Started by EX#996, August 28, 2003, 04:30:10 AM

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EX#996

Well, the ol' SV is starting to give us some signs that it may be time to replace the clutch (stock clutch, 3rd year racing).  My question to you is which is the best one?

Stock Suzuki
EBC
Barnett

Thanks!

Dawn  
Paul and Dawn Buxton

Eric Kelcher

I like stock but have only compared to Barnett.

Just a heads up on aftermarket check the clutch disc thickness as well as the overall stack thickness before install I havd a Barnett that was under the replacement thickenss before install!!! WTF needless to say it slipped right away (I didn't think to check it before install but when it slipped instantly I pulled it back apart to check to be sure I did everything right, I had but since I had installed it too bad so sad you wore the clutch out so quick >:( )
Eric Kelcher
ASRA/CCS Director of Competition

tzracer

I would just use the stock clutch. Lasted quite a while and Paul should be used to the feel of the clutch. Barnetts IMHO tend to have more grab than stock and more difficult to get a good launch. If Paul likes the stock clutch, why change?
Brian McLaughlin
http://www.redflagfund.org
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2 strokes smoke, 4 strokes choke

Dawn

Thanks for the feedback.  I'm just trying to be sure that we're not missing anything.

Dawn   ;)

rickj

Its cable actuated: you did check the lower adjustment?

Always measure stack height no matter what you go with.

If the steel plates aren't burnt blue you can re-use, just scuff with emory cloth AND wash with brake parts or electric contact cleaner---no residue

Barntett clutch springs are by design 10% heavier than stock. If you had stock springs I recommend replacing, your choice but springs take a permanent set over time and you loose clutch engagement pressure-more tendency to slip.

Check all parts for wear, clutch hub, basket, thrust washers, etc...... if it is pulling really hard replace or file wear grooves from hub/basket. Check spring cavities in pressure plate, this is another thing that causes clutch's to hang up and slip.

Make sure you soak new friction plates in oil and when you first fire bike have it in neutral with clutch pulled IN.  This is just me being anal but by doing it you get to control the brake in and seating of new parts.

BTY: friction plates can measure good thickness wise and even look good but still be shit. Always replace all the friction plates and measure stack height.

You forgot Vesrah. I agree with who ever said if it ain't broke don't fixe it.... Go with what you now works/like.  

The devil's in the details!

Good Luck,
Rick