Anybody know the best way to set up my forks cheapest but best to take me the rest of the season before sending them to 4x6?
They aren't the cartrige type...
Race Tech emulators work pretty good on damper rod forks. Installation requires disassembly of fork and drilling the damper rod.
Quote Anybody know the best way to set up my forks cheapest but best to take me the rest of the season before sending them to 4x6?
They aren't the cartrige type...
The MZ forks are made by Paoli, if I remember correctly. Not much too them, and the geometry of the MZ isn't too specatacular. So, the question is: will anything make a reasonable change to the handling. I know that on my MZ I used the different rear dog bones to bring the back up, and then put in 15wt fork oil. I think Dave Fulkerson, the guy that beat me for the Skorpion Cup Championship in 1998, mixed 15 and 10 to get like a 12.5 wt. We had to run everything stock, including springs, the rear shock, etc. I think I did a 26 at BFR when I dropped in for a visit.
Did Andy do anything to the forks?
QuoteThe MZ forks are made by Paoli, if I remember correctly. Not much too them, and the geometry of the MZ isn't too specatacular. So, the question is: will anything make a reasonable change to the handling. I know that on my MZ I used the different rear dog bones to bring the back up, and then put in 15wt fork oil. I think Dave Fulkerson, the guy that beat me for the Skorpion Cup Championship in 1998, mixed 15 and 10 to get like a 12.5 wt. We had to run everything stock, including springs, the rear shock, etc. I think I did a 26 at BFR when I dropped in for a visit.
Did Andy do anything to the forks?
QuoteThe MZ forks are made by Paoli, if I remember correctly. Not much too them, and the geometry of the MZ isn't too specatacular. So, the question is: will anything make a reasonable change to the handling. I know that on my MZ I used the different rear dog bones to bring the back up, and then put in 15wt fork oil. I think Dave Fulkerson, the guy that beat me for the Skorpion Cup Championship in 1998, mixed 15 and 10 to get like a 12.5 wt. We had to run everything stock, including springs, the rear shock, etc. I think I did a 26 at BFR when I dropped in for a visit.
Did Andy do anything to the forks?
Andy took his to 4&6, before that I'm not sure, he had suggested putting 50wt. in because they are still spongy? I have 20wt. in them now.
Sponginess can come from the spring being too light or the dampening being too soft.
You should chech your sag first according to the little booklet that I gave you in one of my schools. Get me that number, and that will give us a ball park.
TRaxxion rebuilt mine and it made a tremendous difference. THey said that the MZ forks required extra machining to fix an inherant "flaw"...cost about $500 for the job.
Yesterday I removed some of the 20wt and added 50wt to it, that "seemed" to help a bit, I'll know more when I hit the track this weekend.
Dave, I'll get the sag measurements today.
Thanks duc995.