I changed the brake lines to stainless and drained the old fluid. problem is the master cylinder wont pump now. it won't draw any from the resevior.???
it's a R6
loosen the bolt at the caliper a bit, and pump. it's most likely air bound and won't let fluid through. once you get fluid leaking at the caliper bolt, tighten it and you can proceed as usual.
You could purchase a brake bleeder. It will allow a suction that assists getting fluid to the calipers. However, doing this the manual way works as well, but you do need to be patient. It does take some time to get the initial fluid into the lines and through to the caliper. Then the brakes will start to pump up at a much faster rate.
A trick that I have used for several years is to get a new metal pump oil can. Fill the oil can with brake fluid and connect it to the bleed valve at the caliper with a tube. Then pump fluid up to the master cylinder. Remove the fluid from the master cylinder and repeat on the other side. After doing this I will also bleed the brakes the regular way.
Tip: After you are all done bleeding your normal way and feel you have a great lever, put a zip tie around the brake lever and hand grip, pull tight and let it sit overnight. The lever will be better in the morning. ;D
I just helped a friend swap SS lines on his and had the same problem.
If you havent checked !
Solution. Turn the dial on the lever !!!! he had it so the lever was too close to the bar.
Made me laugh after trying to bleed his brakes for 20 mins ??
QuoteTip: After you are all done bleeding your normal way and feel you have a great lever, put a zip tie around the brake lever and hand grip, pull tight and let it sit overnight. The lever will be better in the morning. ;D
Oh, that's good...
So, that allows the last little bit of air to escape? And the new R6 might be in my garage Thursday. (And the completed H1 frame that day too! I am a lucky man!)
When I changed my lines on my R6, had the same problem, it was said there is always a little bit of the air left in the master cylinder that doesn't go easily down to the calipers. So I bled the banjo bolts. Apply lever pressure, then loosen the banjo bolt slightly, let the fluid/air escape, then re-tighten. I have gotten a couple bubbles out That way and it did feel firmer afterwards
Thanks, I used a syringe pushed the fluid in thru the calipers and they pumped up and bleed fine now.
Dave ... the zip tie works every time ............
There is a brake bleeder kit available. It has a pump style handle, a reservoir, and different hoses to fit your bleed screw. When you pump up the handle it draws fluid/air from the through your lines and into the reservoir....I foind it works very well and it is fairly cheep tooooooooooooo!!!! ;D
I've used all kinds of bleeder bolts, blah, blah, blah....
Generally, there is an easy way to do things. Gordy, thanks for this one. Being a bit older now, seems like the simple things work better than the one's that cost you money. And I might actually have a zip tie...
Do you remember years ago when Yosh used to zip tie cordless vibrators to their brake lines to shake out the air bubbles? (...Cordless vibrator...for entertainment use only...LOL!)
QuoteOh, that's good...
So, that allows the last little bit of air to escape?
Dave, this works pretty well. What happens is the temperature change will tend to release any trapped air after the brakes are well-bled. It helps if there is a decent temperature change from day to night (15 degrees or so). The key is to make sure they are well bled to begin with.
FWIW, the lever doesn't need to be cranked tight, just pulled enough to open the master cylinder seals...