A friend of mine just bought a new Aprilia RSV Mille Factory. This will be a race bike. He is going to take it to Grattan on Monday, and the bike has 0 miles on it. While doing the usual WATTER WETTER (the RIGHT stuff to use) ::) and regular track prep., we had a small discussion of break in oil. So, we put 10 heat cycles on the bike, changed the tires and coolant, and now it's time for a oil change. He says Dyno/Break In Oil for the first 200 miles, and I say just use synthetic. What do you think? All oils except natural (Mobil) are going to be an Amsoil product. So...
Amsoil Dyno/Break In Oil
Mobil Natural
Amsoil V-Twin Oil
Whatcha' think... ;D
The day is over for everybody if you get synthetic oil on the track. The stuff just won't clean up. Synthetic track oilers run the risk of being the guest of honor at a blanket party...
HUH? ??? Watcha' talkin' bout Wills ??? MOTOROIL ? What kind of motoroil, not coolant. We only use WATTER WETTER on the track for coolant ;) ;D
Syn oil is harder to clean up then Propylene Gycol and causes more issues of getting on track than any coolant. ::) PG cleans up very fast very easily and rarely gets on race surface without other more serious fluids already being laid down. Properly prepping a bike, removing Ethylgycol, and adding PG,Water, waterwetter; installing side covers as required and careful maintainance is the best prevention of having any fluids on the track; well that and keeping a bike upright ;)
QuoteSyn oil is harder to clean up then Propylene Gycol and causes more issues of getting on track than any coolant. ::) PG cleans up very fast very easily and rarely gets on race surface without other more serious fluids already being laid down. Properly prepping a bike, removing Ethylgycol, and adding PG,Water, waterwetter; installing side covers as required and careful maintainance is the best prevention of having any fluids on the track; well that and keeping a bike upright Ê;)
??? You completely lost me. I am talking about motor oil, not coolants. I am talking about what type of motor oil to use to break in the motor on it's maiden run. You are talking about coolant ???
Quote. While doing the usual WATTER WETTER (the RIGHT stuff to use) ::) and regular track prep., we had a small discussion of break in oil.
Break in?
You have to use dyno oil.
I, personally, use John Deere Break In oil when I'm breaking it in.
At a place like Daytona, I'll probably run it fair on the first session, a little harder on the second, and then the third...well, wide open then go to the dyno.
Could change to synthetic after that, if you wish.
The important thing is to focus on deacceleration while doing break in...
Care to offer any conclusions on that?
I like a good oil change in there between all those three sessions.
Quote
Right, sorry for the confusion. I meant motoroil. I know that watter wetter/water is the only thing to use for coolant.
QuoteBreak in?
You have to use dyno oil.
I, personally, use John Deere Break In oil when I'm breaking it in.
At a place like Daytona, I'll probably run it fair on the first session, a little harder on the second, and then the third...well, wide open then go to the dyno. Ê
Could change to synthetic after that, if you wish.
The important thing is to focus on deacceleration while doing break in...
Care to offer any conclusions on that?
I like a good oil change in there between all those three sessions.
He wants to spend $10.00 a quart on Amsoil Dyno/Break In oil. ::)
What ever makes him happy.
I would use Shell Rotella T if I didn't have the Deere Oil...they are similar.
I use Evans cooland in my diesel bus...and I use a PG product in my bike too...
The air in the tires is pretty standard local issue stuff.
I personnally like to use Japanese OEM air ( we told a kid his Honda needed that in grade school!!).
Synthetic oil on a track bike is a waste in my view. It shoudl be changed after every weekend anyway. Castrol GTX is my favorite. There was a spec racer series for cars a few years ago that ran Castrol and they lasted well. Synthetic is also hard to remove from the race course after a spill like Eric said. I agree with the break in idea of Dave though. If I were your buddy, I would tell him to save his money by buying conventional oil and buying premium oil filters and lunch for us for giving him this advice.
I agree with the Shell Rotella T that Dave mentioned. It's priced well and works great on a race bike.
I also use Shell Rotella T in my Diesel truck. :)
When your talking about motor oils, car oils and motorcycle oil are completly to different animals. You run a risk of blowing the motor if you use a car oil. Thats why you have car oils and bike oils.And as for syn. oils alot of the pro teams run the synthetic oils in there bikes at the track in AMA. So good preping and proper maintance is the secret to keeping the fluids off the track.Dont know if synthitics are against the rules in CCS.Are they?Well the techs at the AMA had told me that car oils would hurt your motor, so take it or leave it.
I found a quart of compressed Honda air on e-bay endorsed by Soichiro Honda, buy it now price of 99.95. What a bargain?! Whodoyaknow wants to buy a bike? ;D
The whole "Car oil won't work in a motorcycle" thing is bullshyte; lies started so the oil companies could sell REALLY expensive stuff to concerned motorcyclists. Yes, a motorcycle has a clutch running in it's oil and a car doesn't, but other than that, a motor is a motor. Think of that extra-expensive 4x4 oil that Castoroil sells for trucks. What if I got a replacement motor for my truck out of a sedan? It's all just hype.
Since synthetic oil is so dangerous and hard to clean up on the track surface, I use only regular oil. My dad ran race cars powered by 750cc bike motors, and I've ridden the street and raced for 20 years, always using Valvoline 20-50 Racing. Never lost a motor or clutch due to oil in all that time. Just change it every 2000 miles on a street bike, and every weekend on a racer.
Like I said before. If you get synthetic oil on the track, all the corner workers and half the racers will be scrubbing the track for the next four hours. Been there, seen it, helped clean it up. If you are the offender, your fellow competitiors are going to be much less than pleased with you.
Shell Rotella T is also available in Sythetic too now...
Bike and car oil...
Well, there are some differences.
The EPA is a whiner group, right? The new oils in the SH/SJ, and there may even be a new one, are low friction oils. They do have certain additive packages that keep out some of the cushioning things like zinc.
Anyway, here's a good story.
In 1998, I raced the MZ Skorpion Cup National Championship Series, and I used a 0W50 syn oil after break in. Occasionally, it was hard to start with the starter. A motorcycle has a starting gear mechanism called a "sprage assembly". Anyway, it needs a certain amount of friction. The oil I was using, a car based oil, didn't have enough friction at start up...so, a lot of times, it would release the starter mechanism before it would get popped over.
Diesel based oils, CF/CF4, are probably more appropriate for motorcycle use. They are capable of handling the higher temps possible in a bike, and they go through a lot more orifices in diesels. Some car oils have both ratings.
I have my own oil made, personally, by Power Mist. It's a SAE10 oil that is primarily a dino oil fortified with castor, the ultimate lubricant. I use it occasionally.
Any car oil that has the Energy Conserving 2 rating contains additives that can/may affect motorcycle clutches and starter clutches. EC2 oils are 0W, 5W, and 10W. 15W and higher cannot pass the EC2 rating due to the thickness of the oils (at least the last time I checked), so these oils MAY NOT have the additional additive packages that can cause problems. In Japan there is an additional oil rating for motorcycles. The manufactureres (mostly the Japanese) would like an additional category for motorcycle oil in the rest of the world.
My BMW has a seperate transmission and dry clutch. I use engine oil in the engine (Mobil 15W50) and gear oil in the transmission (Red Line shock proof gear oil).
In my SV I use Golden Spectro.
I use a mixture of KY jelly and diesel fuel.
works everytime. ;D
But Dave is right, regardless what you use, the decel
is most important. Every gear with smooth throttle
modulation. Sweeping the cylander bores occurs most during decel. Change oil after equivelant of
20 miles then run the b i t c h.
30.
QuoteI use a mixture of KY jelly and diesel fuel.
Ummm, exactly where do you use those? :o ;) ;D
QuoteI use a mixture of KY jelly and diesel fuel.
works everytime. ;D
I have a case of KY in the garage. Seriously.
Here's a trick for ya when working on a car, trailer, ect.
When your running wires, and you need to feed the wiring thru a tight spot or a door boot/grommet on a vehicle, apply a little KY to the wire, and it slides right thru. Then, you can wash it off with water, because it's water based. ;D It definetly helps in prototyping automotive electrical systems. ;D