Everything I broke this last weekend was minor except one problem I could use some help to figure out. When I start the bike up and put it in gear and the clutch pulled in, the rear wheel moves. I mean moves significantly enough that I cant stop it with my shoe. It seems the clutch is always about 1/2 to 3/4 engaged. I checked the cables and the pull seems correct and nothing was amiss. the bike did take a pretty good slap to the right side, absorbed mostly by the right clip on, frame slider, exhaust, and rearset.
any ideas on where to begin?
Two questions:
1) If you are sitting on it and it is in gear and you have the clutch pulled in but the bike is in gear, does it stay put or does it creep forward?
2) Is it any better when the oil and engine are up to temp?
to answer: 1 yes, 2 not that I found. I warmed it up about half warm and it wasn't better.
The gear shifter works fine. It rotates through the gears without problems. The clutch always seems to be somewhat, but not fully, engaged though...
What kind of bike is it?
Doh. I guess all the info would be nice. :P
Its a 2000 SV 650 standard version with an unmodified engine and clutch.
On the SV, there is a round adjuster on the left hand side under the cover that goes over the front sprocket. Double check that to make sure it did not go out of adjustment.
To get to it, you will need to remove the cover. There is a flat screw head that you can rotate to make it push further into the pushrod. You will need a 10 mm wrench to loosen the locknut first, and then a small flathead. Try turning it in 1/2 a turn at a time and see what happens.
There is nothing on the right hand side that would affect the clutch, so I am not sure how your crash is to blame. It could also be that the clutch plates are worn down, so if the adjuster I mentioned above does not do the trick, remove the clutch and measure the thickness of the fiber plates. They could have been marginal before the race, and gotten worn down from the launch during the start.
thanks edgar. I will check this tomorrow night. I was confused about this as well. The only thing I thought it could be is that the impact may have knocked something out of whack.
Ok. I tired adjusting the cable and the clutch adjuster but no dice. It got better, enough that I could stop the wheel, but did not resolve the issue. Is this a sign that my clutch is toast and needs replacing? or is there something else I could be missing?
How did it get stored in the off season?
in the garage ???
If you can tell me why you asked that I may be able to answer it more thoroughly.
;D
Sometimes, when the clutch is left engaged for the winter, well, the oil gets pushed out. Now if it was on a side stand...the oil would even end up to one side of the engine. For any kind of longer term storage, I usually zip tie the clutch lever against the bar so that oil will remain between the plates.
Sometimes the fiber pieces will leave a little bit inbedded in the steels and make them a bit grabby.
Barnett plates always seemed to have some of the characteristics that you're having. I "stick" :D with the stock plates.... Making a change this weekend...but I'm not having a "grabby" problem.
Ahh. I stored it in neutral with the clutch disengaged on a front and rear stand upright in the garage.
I know this wasnt a probem before this last weekend though since I oiled my chain with the bike on the rear stand without this problem.
As Edgar stated the rear wheel spinning is not a problem but if your in gear sitting on the bike with the clutch lever pulled all the way in and the bike want's to creep then that's a problem. This is typically warped steel clutch plate's but can also be a notched clutch basket. I would recommend oil, filter, clutch fiber and steel plate replacement. Check the basket when you are in there.
I have a clutch kit on order and am due for an oil change anyway. What should I look for in the basket?
The clutch fiber plates have tabs that ride in the outer clutch basket. When you remove the steel and fiber plates you will be able to see and feel if there is any notches/grooves worn from the plates banging into the basket. It has to be very noticable to warrant replacement. The plates slide back and forth in the basket with engagement and disengagement and badly worn grooves will cause the plates to stick.
Thanks for the info. I will check it out.
Not to sound like a dink, but how is the adjustment at the lever...with anycrash, or racing in general, things get out of adjustment el rapido. Also, check
the clutch cable for kinkyness...You say that it felt better when you adjusted at the shift linkage???
was the nut tight? Can you adjust there anymore?
And, which did you answer yes to on the first question... does it move with you on the bike with the lever depressed or not?
Not a dink at all. I appreciate the help.
The left clipon wasnt touched in the crash but I did check the cable. The cable is in good shape and moves smoothly and I tried adjusting both ends of the cable as well as the shift linkage. The linkage nut was snug but not tight, at least to me. After adjusting it there is no more adjustment on either the cable or linkage.
As it started, it would creep with me on the bike and clutch depressed. It felt like the clutch was about half engaged. After adjusting everything to its maximum it wouldnt really creep with me on it, but would still move the wheel significantly while on the rear stand.
I could not move the bike with the engine off and clutch depressed initially. Now I can move it but it is harder than it should be.
My clutch kit arrives tonight and I will put it in tomorrow night. I'll let you know it this solves the problem. I am so glad I found a service manual.
good luck Chad.
Darn Suzuki's ;)
Well I replaced the clutch plates and springs and Whola! it works fine now! I must have gotten something bent in there when I lowsided. Odd but at least I wont have to replace the clutch again anytime soon.
Once I get the damper in on Tuesday I will be race ready! Woooooo hooooooooo!