'01 GSXR resevoir cap says DOT 4. Found some Bel Ray DOT 4 Plus. Can this stuff be used? Called three area shops-techs did not know for sure. Manual does not specify. Local aftermarket shop cannot order straight DOT 4, and only carry the 4 plus. All I know for sure is that DOT 5 is a no-no. Anyone? TIA
DOT 3,4, and 5.1 are all compatible. When I change to another brand or type of brake fluid, I flush through enough to make sure all the old fluid is gone.
BTW if you wnat the best, try Castrol SRF.
Thanks Brian-next flush I'll try the Castrol. Back to the Mighty Vac.
Let me guess Todd, you went to Foxy's. ;D Personally I wouldnt let those guys put air in a tire.
If you are indeed going to try the Castrol SRF, be prepared for sticker shock. I get it at Pegasus in New Berlin, WI for $72/liter.
Yeah, I went to Foxy's. I think they might know Harley baggers, sometimes, but the techs at Shogren, Engelhardt, and one other shop had no idea for sure. They all knew what NOT to do, but didn't seem to know if Bel-Ray 4 Plus was compatible with what was a Suzuki product already in the resevoir. I shoulda just called Whizzenat, right off the bat.
Holy cats man $72 a liter????!!!!! What's the scoop on this stuff? I'll do some research. Does it last longer-like a couple of years? Is it the Viagra for my master cylinder? Is it synthetic or mineral based or a blend? Anyway, wow, that's spendy fluid.
THey dont know baggers either. The only thing they know is what stunts are what.
In 2000 I had a new chain installed on my YZF by them (the countershaft nut was no coming off for me). WHen I got the bike back, the shifter was so damn low I had to adjust it there. THey looked befuddled when I said the shifter was too low. When I got home, I had to replace the rear brake pads then next weekend. Went to take the caliper bolts out and ALL the threads in the aluminum bracket were stripped out. Looked at the bolts and they had IMPACT wrench marks. At the time, I didnt own air tools nor any impact drivers. So after that, f-em. Not only that, their parts people and store mgr there are a$$hats.
If you want some good stuff at a more normal price, try Motul RBF(?)600.
The SRF has a higher wet boiling point than most fluids dry boiling point.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
QuoteIf you want some good stuff at a more normal price, try Motul RBF(?)600.
Agreed, RBF600 in an excellent fluid.
QuoteThe SRF has a higher wet boiling point than most fluids dry boiling point.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/srf1.htm
That may be true - but have you ever boiled your brakes in a race? Or heard of anyone who has?
I have boiled the fluid many times. Thats why the brakes get spongy (sometimes).
We all dont have those little SV's.
QuoteThat may be true - but have you ever boiled your brakes in a race? ÊOr heard of anyone who has? Ê
I had problems with my TZ brakes, switched brake fluids, problem went away.
I consider brakes to be the most important system on the bike. I use 1 liter of brake fluid a year. Costs me $72 per year. I consider it money well spent. How much is your life worth?
Thanks for the link Brian. The article says Castrol strongly recommends draining the system, flushing, and refill/bleed. Did you have to put different o-rings in your master or calipers?
I'm asking as I gather the SRF is a silicone based fluid. I have rebuilt braking systems with new lines, m.c., and pads, but neglected to change any internal rubbers.(I also neglected to do a "flush".) At that time I had access to Mercedes DOT 5, which is a silicone based fluid, and it proceeded to eat the caliper and master cylinder internals, ate em alive. So, I'm a little hesitant to go back to a silicone based fluid like the M.B.. Anyway, thanks for your time.
No ti is not a silicone based fluid - it is NOT a DOT 5 fluid. It carries a DOT 4 rating. Since I was changing lines and master cylinder on my SV, I just emptied the calipers (let them drain over night after blowing out with compressed air). I assembled the system, bled the system, then flushed 2 reserviors worth of fluid through each caliper. That should get rid of most of the old fluid.
When I switched on my TZ, I drained the entire system, disconnected the lines, used brake cleaner to flush the brake lines, disassembled and cleaned the calipers, disassembled and cleaned the master cylinder. Then reassembled and bled the system and flushed 2 reservoirs of fluid through each caliper. This should be done any time you change type/brands of brake fluid if you want the full effect of the new fluid. Yes it is a PITA, yes it takes time, yes it is the correct way.