RULE BOOK ! I'm tired of saftey wiring. Spent all damn day, and I'm still not done >:( Been breaking drill bits all day. I'm about to call YoYodyne and order predrilled bolts, ect. >:(
Rant over.
I NEED BEER ;D
I heard that! I had the big idea of safety wiring my header bolts, First bolt, 2 bits later I found myself onto another project, I am a regular loctite user though.
Stumpy
dude it sucks the big balls TOTALLY.
go out and buy a cheap drill press, i got one for 80 bucks at harber frieght.
its great for dilling bolts.
I'm still trying to figure out the header bolt thing. Who came up with that one, I don't know. If your exhaust falls off in a race, you have more problems than just the exhaust pipe sliding down the track. ;D
Quotedude it sucks the big balls TOTALLY.
go out and buy a cheap drill press, i got one for 80 bucks at harber frieght.
its great for dilling bolts.
I have one already. Tried that, still breaking bits. I've tried, WD40, Mobil 1, ect. to keep it lubed. I'm going at a slow speed, and still broke more bits than I can count. Hell, I'm even using the good bits. Bosch Titanium bits ??? The damn bolts are hard. Seem to be harder on this GSXR than they were on my old R6 ???
Ya know Motion Pro has safety wire drilling jigs for bolts and nuts.:D:D
QuoteYa know Motion Pro has safety wire drilling jigs for bolts and nuts.:D:D
I have one. ;D
I've spent more time on a drill press than I care to think about...
If you're breaking bits than you're flexing the bit. I'm not crazy about the titanium bits either, I like the carbide ones at home depot for about $3-$4 per. Make sure you're using a punch to mark where you want the hole as it'll make entry easier on the bit, use real light pressure when you get close to the other side of the bolt, they're usually case hardened and the outsides are harder than the insides so that's where the bits like to break.
QuoteI'm still trying to figure out the header bolt thing. Who came up with that one, I don't know. If your exhaust falls off in a race, you have more problems than just the exhaust pipe sliding down the track. ;D
i let a friend help me do some work to my bike. he didn't tighten the header bolts and both bolts came off the #2 or 3 cylinder at vir. i though the motor went south. a lot of worry because i didn't re-wire the header and didn't check a friend's work.
it happened as i went under the bridge at vir, scared the crap out of me. i'm glad i was on a relatively straight section and could look to see if i had a smoke screen behind me.
the rules may be a pain in the ass, but they're there for a reason.
anyway, just my $.02
oh yeah, i bought three gold-colored bits from sears for next to nothing and still have one left after doing two bikes. they were cheap and they work. just don't use too much pressure.
You guys know WERA doesn't require you to wire exhaust header bolts this year right? :)
I still wire the front header bolts and the rear ones (depending on my patience level at the time).
FWIW, the drill press is a good investment. It makes the whole process so much easier.
QuoteYou guys know WERA doesn't require you to wire exhaust header bolts this year right? :)
I still wire the front header bolts and the rear ones (depending on my patience level at the time).
FWIW, the drill press is a good investment. It makes the whole process so much easier.
I'm in the process of making a thread labeled "The Rules Break Down." This thread will be in the tech section for all newbies on what each org. requires. Even though it's in the rulebook, the cliff notes version isn't as scary. I'm gonna list the basic tech stuff that needs to be done for each racing org. to put it on the track. ;D Hell, after years of looking at them, the rulebooks still intimidate me too. :D
yeah, I think they are a bit excessive on wire. You even have to do your brake pad pins if they are the screw in type with no stock retaining clip. Like the GSXR750 style. No more header wiring though.
When drilling with little tiny drill bits, use the FASTEST speed you have on your drill. At slower speeds you will probably try to force the bit too much. Because the bit is such a small diameter, the cutting edge doesn't travel very far in a rotation, hence the high speed. Also, a lot of bolts and nuts on motorcycles are hardened steel. Use colbalt drill bits on these, the HSS bits will dull really quick. Throw away those dull bits, even if you haven't broken it, because you soon will.
If you complain about WERA's safety wire requirements you should see AHRMA's. I also have about half a pound of wire on my CR500, but it vibrates so much it would fall right apart without it.
-z.
QuoteWhen drilling with little tiny drill bits, use the FASTEST speed you have on your drill. At slower speeds you will probably try to force the bit too much. Because the bit is such a small diameter, the cutting edge doesn't travel very far in a rotation, hence the high speed. Also, a lot of bolts and nuts on motorcycles are hardened steel. Use colbalt drill bits on these, the HSS bits will dull really quick. Throw away those dull bits, even if you haven't broken it, because you soon will.
If you complain about WERA's safety wire requirements you should see AHRMA's. I also have about half a pound of wire on my CR500, but it vibrates so much it would fall right apart without it.
-z.
Got any tricks for removing the broken part of the drill bit that is stuck inside the bolt? ::) >:( :'(
my bike is completely ccs and lrrs legal with even some extra stuff wired up and it only ran me two drill bits to do my entire bike. i drilled every bolt in place on the bike. just a little oil in a soda bottle cap, and some good ole cobalt drill bits will do the trick. ;)
QuoteGot any tricks for removing the broken part of the drill bit that is stuck inside the bolt? ::) >:( :'(
EDM (electrical discharge machining) - It's how we burn broken taps out of parts in my line of work (usually these parts being multi-thousand dollar chunks of titanium) :P
If the tip of the drill bit started to protrude out the other side, you can try to back it out with a (small) pin punch. If there is still some of the broken bit sticking out, try to get some vice grips on it and turn it out. Grinding a small flat on the bit with a dremel will help. If you want to put a lot of work into it (instead of buying a another bolt) you can heat it with a torch which will expand the bolt (and the hole).
I tend not to use safety wire drilling jigs, I've found them to be more trouble than they're worth. I only use one when I'm drilling through the threaded end of the bolt. With a jig it is very important to get everything lined up very straight (the drill axis to the jig hole, and the drill press table better be normal to the drill axis for that to happen). If not the bit will be flexed and is more likely to break. When I cross drill socket heads, I center punch the head, then hold it in my drill press vise (with aluminum soft jaws) on the shank. When I do the corners of nuts or hex head bolts (and I almost always do three corners on each head) I hold the nut or bolt in a bench vise and use a hand held drill. It takes some practice, but I wear out about 4 drill bits for every one I break, so I don't break many.
-z.