What is the best method? Tips? I've done it once before and could not get the "glossy" look without getting runs in the paint. Specific brands?
I have a small air compressor, can I buy a cheap spray setup and still be half way decent? What do you recommend? How bout sanding and repair tips? Glob fiberglass on and sand it down? :P
Mike, give me a call later and you can talk to Roger. He's the paint expert. He'll give you tips on rattle can or spraying your own w/ compressor.
I rattled mine last year and got many compliments on the stealthy finish. ;D
MJ... I've rattle can'd all my paint jobs. I usually pay alot of attention to preparation. Make sure you don't have any lint or dust on the bodywork. I wet down the entire garage floor while painting. I spray on about 4 thin layers 15 min apart. Usually comes out pretty nice.
It's all about the prep work.
Prep work is a must, then be sure to shake the hell out of the paint cans. A few little shakes won't mix it properly. Believe it or not we built a spay can shaker/mixer at work and it makes a great difference. Also be sure the area you paint in is warm (helps the paint flow for a better finish) and well ventilated.
Suggestions on rattle can brands? I heard never use krylon....if you ever plan to really paint it.
QuoteSuggestions on rattle can brands? I heard never use krylon....if you ever plan to really paint it.
I used plastikote.:D:D
NOw I got a compressor and a gun and will do the next one to look "pretty".:D:D
I did not use a rattle can. I used the liquid stuff with a paint brush. after it dried I wet sanded it for a while and then went over it with a high gloss clear coat. ( hell itis only my practice set so I figured I'd have some fun.)
I preped the body work for a week.
I did not use a rattle can. I used the liquid stuff with a paint brush. after it dried I wet sanded it for a while and then went over it with a high gloss clear coat. ( hell itis only my practice set so I figured I'd have some fun.)
I preped the body work for a week.
Rattle can with PlastiKote. Go to wera 13 tech boards, find post from Pugsly-complete directions. Good luck.
I've had paint mixed at a local auto body/paint supply store that will put any automotive color you want in a spray can. Thousands of colors to choose from rather than off the shelf stuff like Krylon or Rustoleum. Look around, make some calls before you buy paint.
Just when I'd given up the idea of painting the Beast, John sent me down into the basement for something... surprise, surprise... my belly pan was no longer Baby Elephant Grey!
He's using the Ace Hardware store brand... have no idea how much sanding he did - yet. We'll see how it looks next month!
QuoteRattle can with PlastiKote. Go to wera 13 tech boards, find post from Pugsly-complete directions. Good luck.
Here... http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?threadid=31635
Prep...
Sand, paint, sand, paint, repeat. It's like shampoo instructions.
The finish gets smoother and smoother. Then, on your final time, use polishing compound.
If you're gonna clear it, make sure that the color is the same as your clear (enamel, acrillic).
Yes, shake 'em up good.
I also put my spray bomb in really really warm water for about 20 minutes...helps mix up the solvents.
When you start spraying for each pass, begin before you hit your target...the initial spray has a different amount of solvents...and extend past your target.
When you're done with your color, turn it upside down and spray.
Great tips, thanks to all. Hopefully I'll have some pre-crash photos to post. ;D
If you have any more I welcome them, especially for repair work. :P
I just ran into an interesting problem while "rattle can" painting. I used steel wool to prepare for a second coat...worked great and was easier to use on the curved surfaces one faces with bodywork. Then...when I went to put a coat of paint on (after washing the surface with Simple Green and water) and had the surface "crinkle up" in a bunch of places! Kind of looked like what one does intentionly when "antiquing" a piece of furniture! Apparently the oil that the steel wool is treated with to prevent corrosion is too resistant to be removed with the Simple Green wash...I guess I need some form of surface degreaser to prep the surface prior to painting! FYI
Sounds like a solvent problem...
I'd use "PrepSol" or something like 3M Adhesive remover to "clean" it up.
PrepSol is designed to clean things off. Probably get it at an auto body supply place.
I just had the same happen to me a few minutes ago on my tail section.
Paint was about 6-8 hours old and untouched.
I sprayed it with clear and it alligatored bad
I picked up all the cans together (rustolium).. maybe the clear was laquer or something.
I just got done stipping it all off again
Too cranky to start again today. :(
"D"
Hey guys - rattle can painting is perfect for racebikes. It won't win any contests at classic car shows, but remember what you're painting...a racebike. Anyway, I highly recommend visiting your local bodywork paint shop. Don't pick from the crap on the shelves at Home Depot, you can get the good stuff for only a few bucks more. Choose from their color charts (literally thousands of choices) and tell them to put that base coat in a rattle can for you. I pay $13.50/can. They put everything in the can for you including reducer and hardener. Depending on how many colors (and what colors) you want, a bike can be done in as little as 2 or 3-cans. If you want a clear coat make sure that your base coat will accept one... I'm willing to bet that the people experiencing orange peel on the top coat used a urethane clear coat over a typical enamel base that wasn't designed for that. Most clear coats are urethanes, most urethanes have some pretty hot solvents in them. These solvents will literally eat through your basic enamel, leaving you with what you've got now. Prep work - be careful with Simple Green (I've got a better chemical cleaner for you!) because if you don't COMPLETELY wipe it clean it will leave a residue, which acts as a release agent. I use soap/water then clean water and immediately before spraying use a tack cloth. A little thinner wipe wouldn't hurt, but again be careful not to attack the base coat. Don't be afraid to sand between coats (600), even clear coats. It looks like hell when you're doing it, but the next coat will cover it up! And remember - more is not better in this case ;) Put the paint on as thin as you can get away with. As soon as you have an even finish, let it go. 3 thin coats will look 100times better than one thick one. Plus if you put a urethane on too heavy, it will trap solvents in itself causing uncured paint and "dry cracks". Have fun. Mike - getting stickers to you by Thursday might be a long-shot. But it's possible. Have fun in Topeka, and soften up that suspension!
10bomb Got a phone number or any contact info for that shop that will make the rattle cans for you??
Not having much luck around here.
Thanks
"D"
Find a local PPG auto body paint store. Your local one should do it. Where do you think bodyshops and dealers get their paint spray bombs...
Thanks guys! The only problem I am having now is that the 600 wet/dry grit seems to be able to take more paint off between coats that I want. I thought I was done painting and just used the 600 grit to get ready for the final (clear) coat...but no...I can now see some primer showing through...need to continue with the color coating again!
QuoteFind a local PPG auto body paint store. Your local one should do it. Where do you think bodyshops and dealers get their paint spray bombs...
Ok posting up what I have found so far
I looked up PPG's web site and called around the local shops The 2 I called don't make the spray can's.
One referred me to Terrace Supply in Wheeling illinois (847) 419-3900
They have the machine that can match an existing painted piece of bodywork but that they could not use it for enamel paints, (Enamel paints are the only ones offered in the spray cans)
They need specific paint colors so you would have to
pick from the samples and give them a paint code.
Aproximate price was $13.00 a can with a 3 can minimum and they all have to be the same color
(1 pint of paint = 3 spray cans) also there is a 1 week turn around time.