I'm considering a Toy Hauler, and some of them appear as if they should be able to be towed by a 1/2 Ton pickup. Note I'm reffering to the lightweight models such as Weekend Warrior, or Carson lightweight models.
The truck will eventually get upgraded too, but for now I need to find a Toyhauler that can be towed by the 1/2 Ton until that upgrade can happen.
Also people that have them, what issues do you have, or what do you like about yours? Also post your make and model too as I'm not sure I am aware of all of them yet either.
I have been looking at them also but I have recieved some words of caution lately from people in the know that the State Police nationwide are on a big crack down on people towing illegally (though most people don't know they are). There has been such a massive increase in the number of people towing that it has become an issue now. I know of trailer sales businesses that have gotten nailed for minor violations with rather expensive fines, while towing the trailers they sell from the manufacturing facility to their lot.
The things to consider are numerous. 1st is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your tow vehicle. This includes the weight of the truck, a full tank of fuel, all passengers and luggage, plus the weight the trailer adds to the vehicle on the hitch (usually about 10% to 15% of the weight of the trailer is on the truck - for a ball pulled trailer. 5th wheels carry 15% to 20% of the weight of the trailer on the hitch pin- so this will quickly surpass the GVWR of most all 3/4 tons and lighter trucks. Even 1 tons can quickly go over the GVWR if you have 4 people in the vehicle).
Next is the weight rating of your licese plate, no matter what your GVWR is. Next is individual axle weights when loaded (both for truck and trailer).
I went and weighed my 2002 Ford F250 Turbo Deisel and it was 7500 pounds with me in it and a full tank of fuel. My plate is only good for 8000 pounds. That means with 4 people in the vehicle I am over weight!
Wow!! That is SCARY!
So basically you spent the money for a HD truck but legally can't tow anything more than one bike in the bed?
I guess I will have to weigh our truck, because based on the numbers printed on the door, and in the manual. Theoretically I should be able to pull up to 8000lbs which means to me more like 6000lbs. But if that hitch weight adds that much then I might be in real trouble.
Where can you go to weigh your truck? Just a scale station on the side of the road? How does that work do you pay them? Also can they weigh individual axles as well as the entire vehicle?
Sorry for all the questions, but I really don't want to get something that I can't haul safely, and especially not legally. Because I've heard that through TN is one of these areas they crack down on, and that is an area we travel through frequently.
You'll be hard-pressed to tow something big with a 1/2 ton vehicle. I spent the season towing my 7x23 V-nose trailer with my 1/2 ton van. It did okay, but labored pretty hard. My gas mileage went to about 7.
The weight of the trailer loaded was around 7000lbs. I'm picking up a used 1ton diesel van next weekend...
I was hoping to stay below 7000 I was looking more like 5800 loaded. And 24' is what I'm considering anything larger I wouldn't even attempt.
Thanks for the info though, that is exactly what I need to help. I know already that a bigger Tow Vehicle is in the future, just want to know if I can manage for a season before that upgrade. It would space out the purchase of a toy hauler and then the new truck which might just make it possible.
The main difference that you'll have working against you with your toy-hauler versus my v-nose, is that I stuck with a 7' width whereas most any toy hauler will be 8.5'. Plus, the height of my trailer is just about even with my van top, so air flows nicely.
If you're using a truck, put a topper on it to deflect wind.
The transmission and rear-end on a truck will treat you better than my van as well, but still will be taxed. Oh, you're also looking at needing some air shocks or some other form of rear-end stiffening...
Thanks that info does really help. I know we'll be looking at a couple things to even make it possible. We'll need a new hitch for the truck, a load balancing hitch with anti-sway, and possibly a transmission cooler.
It's still easier though to purchase those things then take a hit on trading a 2003 truck in. I guess I will have to also see what the total comes to for all these items we would need maybe that will be enough to offset the amount needed to trade.
Again thanks though, it does help to hear the differences between the trailers and what experience you've had.
I should also add a few more things. You can go to a truck stop along an interstate to get your truck and/or trailer weighed. They give you total weight plus individual axle weights. If you will always be towing the same load in your trailer it's a good idea to weigh your trailer loaded with all your stuff, just disconect it from your tow vehicle leaving it on the tongue jack. This way you can get the tongue weight (optimum is 12% of the total weight of the trailer), just move stuff around till you get it close and remember how you have it loaded for in the future (mabey take a photo of how it was loaded just for the hell of it). An aproximate 12% tongue load will give you the best control while towing. Also make sure that the trailer is level when fully loaded and attached to your vehicle. Too high or too low will cause the trailer to wander around (same with tail loading too much weight on the trailer).
My truck has a GVWR of 8800 lbs.(though I have an 8000 lb. plate) but I have to go to a 8000 to 12000 lb. plate to get to the trucks GVWR. That plate is $135 per year as compared to the 8000 lb plate which is $78 per year. Also some states don't allow trailers over 8' wide on roads other than interstates and Class 2 roads (or you can go a certain distance away from one of those specified roads down regular roads, in Illinois it is 5 miles I believe). Go to your drivers facility and get the towing rules of the road for this application in your state. The same also applies to the plate on your trailer, get the proper weight class plate for what you are going to use it for. There are significant price increases at certain weights, my plates are over $100 a year just for my trailer! (10,000 lb. plate, since my trailer is 4400 lbs empty and is a car hauler).
Toy Hauler !!
Im jealous ! You going to run the whole season this year LBK ?
Dave what are you planning to haul? Just the bikes?
Good info. I was about to start asking some of the same questions already answered here.
The Wegman Fund is looking for a Toy-Hauler to use as a rolling store at the race tracks. I have an F250 turbo diesel to pull it with. Just need to find a trailer dealer that wants to donate the unit or give us a screaming deal in trade for some advertising on the rig and our new website coming up soon. ;D ;D ;D
Man am I on a roll here, I just can't shut-up! ;D
Another issue with the toy haulers is if they have a bathroom and/or kitchen area with refrigerator, stove, and microwave. Most of the time all of these options are usually located in the front half of the trailer which puts quite a bit of weight on the tongue of the trailer when it's not loaded with bikes. A 27' toy hauler trailer I have been looking at has a hitch weight of 900 lbs. empty. Another source of weight will be the water in the water tank, which in this case has a 100 gallon tank. Since water is something like 6 or 7 lbs per gallon, times 100 gallons, that adds another 600 to 700 lbs to the trailer. Depending on where the tank is located will determine how much that water adds to the tongue weight, which in turn affects the GVWR of your tow vehicle. What will help this situation is to load your bike(s) as far back as possible in the cargo area. By adding weight to the very back you should actually be lightening the tongue load by using leverage.
Make sure that if you are planning on having other people in your tow vehicle, or cargo in the bed, that your taking that into account when looking at the GVWR of your tow vehicle. In Illinois if your over loaded by 2000+ pounds total (truck and trailer combined) you will be ARRESTED if caught and face fines of $500 to $2000! :o If this happens your overloaded truck or trailer must be made legal before it can be moved from that location. This means if your overloaded by 2000+ lbs. as compared to your truck and trailer plates (no matter what the GVWR of either) or if your over the GVWR of either truck or trailer no matter what plates you have, you can be arrested in Illinois. Most people are unaware of these laws and penalties and have been lucky to never be pulled over by a State Cop looking to fill their quota for that months revenue requirements. ;) At least by being aware of these laws you won't be suprised if you are one of the rare unlucky people to get pulled over and they bring out the portable scales.
I'll chime in since I sell trailers...
First, ToyHaulers and such are not cargo trailers, generally. They are RV trailers that are converted to cargo use. So, their structure and componentry is quite different from a really good cargo trailer. They may look nice, but the logic in how they are laid out sometimes leaves something to be desired for towing use.
Compontentry...exterior aluminum, wall Studs, RV axles vs cargo axles, etc. etc.
Weight... I use a 8.5x18 Pace American Trailer. 10k GVWR on the trailer...the trailer dry weighs 3650. I'll abuse a 1/2 ton trailer. Get a big truck with a diesel. My E150 was doing 9MPG at its best, but generally 6 to 8. My E350 super does 12 to 13 but has done 15...three tanks in a row. And it's bigger than the trailer.
If you really want living quarters, cargo trailer manufactures make these kind of trailers too, but they are more structurally sound.
QuoteFirst, ToyHaulers and such are not cargo trailers, generally. They are RV trailers that are converted to cargo use. So, their structure and componentry is quite different from a really good cargo trailer. They may look nice, but the logic in how they are laid out sometimes leaves something to be desired for towing use.
Compontentry...exterior aluminum, wall Studs, RV axles vs cargo axles, etc. etc.If you really want living quarters, cargo trailer manufactures make these kind of trailers too, but they are more structurally sound.
The frame structure was something that concerned me about the toy haulers too. I really like the profesional quality of the Pace trailers, they are built very well and have great fit and finish compared to a number of the other manufacturers. But on the other hand I wish they had a little bit more of the beeps, bells, and whistles like the toy haulers do. I figure the lower costs that I have seen for the same options in a toy hauler as compared to a cargo trailer is because you get what you pay for when it comes to quality. The car haulers skimp on the structure of the trailer as compared to the cargo trailer which will be a far sturdier trailer that will last.
Thanks for turning my head back away from the toy haulers Dave, I was being drawn toward the dark side! :) Though I think I am probably going to stick with my V-nose car hauler for 1 more season. :-/
Have you checked out the Pace Explorers? Basically, it's the Shadow model Auto Hauler with a set up inside. Really, you can have anything done you want. Just a matter of...$$
QuoteHave you checked out the Pace Explorers? Basically, it's the Shadow model Auto Hauler with a set up inside. Really, you can have anything done you want. Just a matter of...$$
I requested a bunch of info and price lists from Pace a few months ago and that was one of them. I have that flyer and had considered it, but then I got distracted by the Dark Side. That reminds me that another thing I didn't like about a number of the toy haulers as compared to the cargo based trailers was the high deck and overall heights of the toy hauler trailers. The ramps on a number of the toy haulers are really steep due to the deck height of the trailer being so tall which would be a real pain in the butt pushing a bike up those ramps.
Yeah, they are tall. Pace still usually only about 20 to 21 inch deck height then there is a beaver tail too. Makes life easy. V-noses like Jeff's are a little different. Usually they sit a bit higher. Jeff, I don't think we spent the extra money on a beaver tail on yours did we (you...LOL!)? But still, yours isn't as high as Jack's.
QuoteYeah, they are tall. Pace still usually only about 20 to 21 inch deck height then there is a beaver tail too. Makes life easy. V-noses like Jeff's are a little different. Usually they sit a bit higher. Jeff, I don't think we spent the extra money on a beaver tail on yours did we (you...LOL!)? But still, yours isn't as high as Jack's.
My hitch had to be 19 or 20" at the top of the ball (if that helps).
My trailer is the V-nose 7x22.5'. The options I got was the 'convenience' package or whatever with the rear ramp door, stone guard and side door. We upgraded the side door into an RV door for a mere $500 more ;) Mine is nowhere near as high or steep as Jack's.
If you get a ramp too steep, you end up crushing the bottom of your plastics on the IN/OUT of the trailer...
The layout of my trailer? Check it...
http://www.cbr600rr.com/pages/trailer.htm
Here's some more pics of the layout and it in USE early in the season:
http://www.cbr600f4.com/secondary_pages/2003_race_report1.htm
The only drawbacks with mine...
1. Tow vehicle was underpowered (resolving that this weekend)
2. It took me a couple trips to learn how to load it correctly to get enough weight on the front
In the end, there is nothing I would do different. I LOVE that trailer, and every last dime I've spent on it has been WELL worth it.
I put an AC unit on it this summer as well, which is a definite plus on the HOT days.
My pieces of wisdom on getting a trailer (do with it what you will).
1. Get graph paper and map out every last inch of the trailer before you consider buying it. You may find you're buying too much or too little trailer. If you do NOTHING else here, do this... You won't regret it a bit.
2. Don't skimp on simple options like a ramp door and a side door. They are invaluable
3. Don't pay the trailer company to build out something you can do yourself (AC wiring, interior walls, etc)
4. Make sure you have a big enough tow vehicle.
5. Don't skimp on a cheap brake controller. Losing your brake controller going through Chicago with a full load is NOT fun (ask me how I know).
6. Support Dave... He supports the rest of us :D
QuoteMy pieces of wisdom on getting a trailer (do with it what you will).
1. Get graph paper and map out every last inch of the trailer before you consider buying it. You may find you're buying too much or too little trailer. If you do NOTHING else here, do this... You won't regret it a bit.
2. Don't skimp on simple options like a ramp door and a side door. They are invaluable
3. Don't pay the trailer company to build out something you can do yourself (AC wiring, interior walls, etc)
4. Make sure you have a big enough tow vehicle.
5. Don't skimp on a cheap brake controller. Losing your brake controller going through Chicago with a full load is NOT fun (ask me how I know).
6. Support Dave... He supports the rest of us :D
I did the same thing with the graph paper when I laid out my trailer. I drew in all the electrical outlets, roof vents, air conditioner, roof hatch, doors, windows, ramps, etc. I then did something we do at work when we need to rearrange machines in a department. I cut out some pieces of cardboard to scale representing the apx. footprint of motorcycles, my generator, tool boxes, and storage containers. This makes it very easy to see just how things are probably going to fit in the trailer. I also then laid out where I would have the recessed E-Track in the floors and walls after I knew where everything was going to be in the trailer.
Quote3. Don't pay the trailer company to build out something you can do yourself (AC wiring, interior walls, etc)
4. Make sure you have a big enough tow vehicle.
5. Don't skimp on a cheap brake controller. Losing your brake controller going through Chicago with a full load is NOT fun (ask me how I know).
6. Support Dave... He supports the rest of us :D
Thanks... Keeps me paying a few bills.
There are lots of options that are worth having the manufacturer do, actually. Most of them I have a hard time finding a way to do it less expensive than they do. I really like the Line-X floors, and what I charge to my customers seems to be about a third of what a Line-X place will do it for.
Cheap brake controllers....yup, you do that once...once.
Ehhh..Hemmm
Alright, I know something about this. I be experienced.
I towed a 1998 Fleetwood 24' toyhauler with an Expedition last year. It was my friend's T/H that he let me borrow for race weekends. With a wife and 2 year old, facilities come in handy. It has a generator (in the front compartment-tongue load) so we could sleep at rest areas if need be.
My Expo has the Lincoln Navigator air ride suspension. This helped out a lot as the trailer was WAY TOO heavy for a 1/2 ton truck. I know what some of you want to say, but save it as I have upgraded my tow vehicle. Anyway, the T/H loaded prolly weighed in at close to 9,500 lbs. This T/H was killing my Expo. The suspension handled it but I was worried about the running gear. Not to mention I had 1 very scary moment when the trailer started whipping the Expo around. The trailer brakes saved the day, I won't tow without them now.
I bought my own T/H middle of last year. It's a 2000 Tahoe 21'. Much more plush and lighter. They seem the get lighter every year so try to buy as new as possible. This wasn't nearly as taxing on the Expo. It was working the 5.4 motor still, but I wasn't scared about the running gear like I was with the other one. This T/H prolly weighs about 8,000 lbs loaded. Still too heavy for a half ton. My Expo is rated 7,900 lbs.
I tail load my T/H. Two reasons: 1. They build them tongue heavy 'cuz they never know what the consumer is going to put in them. and 2. This left ALL of the living quarters available should we need to camp for a few days. We actually had 4 adults and a toddler camping in the T/H for a couple of days in Vegas with the racebike and gear in the back. It wasn't even in the way.
Mileage :-/ :'( The expo got something like 5 to 6 MPG. We had to stop about every 130 to 150 miles for gas. This made for a long day, since everytime you stop you prolly kill close to 20 min. Also, It didn't really like to do the speed limit much. Too much weight and the trailer pushed a lot of air. Keeping in mind our speed limits out here are 75 MPH on the freeway. LONG TRIP was an understatment.
I have since bought an F-250 SuperDuty Diesel. Can't believe the power. Faster than my car. Set the criuse with the T/H and go, 75 MPH and an average of 13 MPG. Definitely the way to go....but seriously expensive. It will pay for itself, as I typically put on a lot of miles, but the initial hit was killer. Everytime I drive it I can't get the smile off my face though.
Oh yeah. Cruise control is out with a half ton. I had to feather the throttle to ensure that I gave it as much gas as possible without kicking it down into second gear and winding it out. What a pain. No relaxing on the way home. Sometimes that was 12 hours AFTER a race weekend. Sux bigtime.
I know what S.Dave is saying about cargo vs. RV, but with only 1 or even 2 bikes to haul plus gear, you don't really need a cargo type trailer. These T/Hs are designed for much more than what we're hauling.
I hope I helped
D.Dave 8)
I did a little write up on brake contollers a while back. Here is link to it. http://www.racemotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/board/YaBB.pl?board=tips;action=display;num=1044306888
FYI the prices I listed were installed prices I was quoted while shopping so actual hardware prices will vary as the shops I am sure had different labor rates and some are more expensive than others to install; no one shop carried them all.
another thing for those with diesels or autos the Brake smart is coming out with a gauge option to get EGT, tran temp and maybe couple others boost, diff temps?
Stevie, nope won't be running the entire season. Pretty much just local races for the most part. When it is me, my wife, and the little guy though comfort is almost a neccessity.
Rob, just a bike possibly two. Tools, wheels and anything like that will get loaded either into the bed or the interior of the truck to place more weight forward in the vehicle.
We kind of have a different reason for looking at them. First of all NO toy haulers are not built like Cargo trailers. The frame is different, walls etc...
The reason we want a Toy Hauler is for dual purpopse. Yes we really like the idea of having it at the track but we also want to actually use it to go camping, and work remotely throughout the winter. We bought a popup and we'll be using that this year probably (Unless the toy hauler works out). Basically load the bike in the truck then tow the pop up. Gives you a nice comfortable place at the track. But is limiting on how much room you have left for anything else. So our idea is that if we can get the Toy Hauler before we upgrade the truck. Then yeah we are still limited on what we can bring just as we are now.
BUT after the truck upgrade then we will have plenty of room for the things I need at the track. Plus as I said we have a plan that we are working on trying to head south for 1 week a month during winter months. Work remotely which both my wife and I have the ability to do, and take the street bike so we can ride. So a lot of times the Toy Hauler may have minimal or possibly even no Toys when we are using it. As we will also take the little guy camping a lot too.
We just spent a week in the keys in the pop up and it was nice, just really realized how much a bathroom would be nice.
Also as for the water and other fluids, you don't really need them until you get to the track or close. We plan on only filling up as soon as we make our last stop so we are only hauling fluids for a short distance. Plus we won't ever fill up the tanks completely as you don't need that much if you can use showers and toilets most of the time at the track. The bathroom is more for immediate or overnight use.
Ok that was a bit long winded.
I think I'm in a similar situation as DecreasingDave where family comes with and their comfort plays an important role.
Just make sure to keep in mind that the stuff loaded in the very back of a toy hauler is what helps to take weight OFF of your tow vehicle (thru a leverage action over the axles on the trailer). It may be very possible that you could be legal on your trucks GVWR with stuff in the back of the trailer, then be overweight on your trucks GVWR when the trailer is empty. Most likely you wouldn't be pulled over anyways and have to deal with any of this, but if you did it would be Hell if you were over!
An interesting sidenote for those who may be looking to purchase a new tow vehicle in IL - it seems if you get "D" plates (the big ones) at the time of purchase, you don't have to pay sales tax on the vehicle.
Requirements for the D plates - 180/yr (as opposed to 70) and you have to have the truck safety-inspected twice a year (local truck service place 15 minutes from my house does this for a $10 fee.) I've gotta have this truck a long time before the increased cost of the plates exceeds the savings I'm getting from the elimination of sales tax.
Hello All,
I have a 21 ft. toy hauler that I tow with my Expedition. I have no problems except that fuel mileage isn't so great. By the way, now that the AMA has killed my class, I am only going to race local races. Because of this my toy hauler is for sale. It's a 2000 Tahoe, with fiberglass sides. It's in excellent condition. I can send pictures to anyone interested. I want 12,000.00 for it and am located in Northern CA.
Rich Denman
gpconcepts@hotmail.com
QuoteAn interesting sidenote for those who may be looking to purchase a new tow vehicle in IL - it seems if you get "D" plates (the big ones) at the time of purchase, you don't have to pay sales tax on the vehicle.
Requirements for the D plates - 180/yr (as opposed to 70) and you have to have the truck safety-inspected twice a year (local truck service place 15 minutes from my house does this for a $10 fee.) I've gotta have this truck a long time before the increased cost of the plates exceeds the savings I'm getting from the elimination of sales tax.
I am going thru this very thing in upgrading my plate from 'B' to 'D' this week. I called the Illinois Secretary of State Police Department here in Rockford Illinois and asked a bunch of questions about truck plates. According to them you don't have to get the twice a year truck inspections until you go to an 'F' plate and don't need the medical card either. If you look at the truck book at the drivers facility they lead you to believe that you need those things for 'D' plates too. Also I was told the cost of the plate is $138 per year currently and only renews in July if I remember correctly, so I will be pro-rated for what's left on my current plate toward the new 'D' plate which will be in it's last quarter of use.
I want to be legal, but when things are not made clear at the driver's license facility itself it really makes it difficult! :-/
Some other points worth noting, regarding tow vehicles (and toy haulers).
The GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating - i.e. the maximum weight allowed for truck and trailer combined) on all F250 and F350 SuperDuty trucks is 20,000 pounds. No matter whether it's Single or Dual Rear Wheel. The duallies can't pull more, they can just carry more weight in the bed - i.e. the GVWR is higher, but not the GCWR. The GCWR for new Chevy Duramax trucks is something like 23,500 and the Dodge Cummins HO is 23,000, I think.
As has already been noted, an F250 SuperDuty full of fuel and passengers is already pretty close to its 8800 pound GVWR - particularly if it's a crew cab 4x4 diesel. You can't legally tow jack squat with one. An F350 is only $600 (dealer invoice) more (for an otherwise-identical truck) and has a GVWR of 9900 pounds. And, despite some common opinions to the contrary, they are virtually identical trucks. The F350 has one extra leaf spring in the rear and 2" taller blocks between the axle and bed. So, it rides just as well as a 250. I just went from an '03 250 to an '04 350 precisely because of the increased carrying capacity for minimal money and no real downside.
As another data point, the trailer I just sold was a 6x12 V-nose, single axle. I weighed it once on the way home from a race. It had 2 race bikes, a 50cc pit bike, my rolling tool chest, a couple of canopies, and some miscellaneous odds and ends in it. It was 4,500 pounds. It won't be a very big toy hauler AT ALL that exceeds the weight ratings of a 1/2 ton truck when it is loaded with race gear.
lbk, it sounds like you're in a similar boat to me. I'm shopping for a toy hauler also. I want it to have sleeping quarters up front that are separate from the cargo and living areas. I want to be able to get up early on a race weekend and go about my day (including having other people coming and going from my trailer) without having to have myself or others traipsing through where my g/f is trying to sleep. Unfortunately, for a toy hauler like that, I haven't found any yet that are less than 27'. I.e. way too heavy for a 1/2 ton truck. You might want to just wait until you have upgraded your tow vehicle and use the pop-up in the meantime.
Oh, and finally, when people start telling you you need a 5th wheel because they "tow better", tell them they should check out the Hensley Arrow or the Pull-rite hitches for bumper-pull trailers. With either of those, a bumper-pull trailer will tow exactly as well as a 5th wheel.
- Stu
Pull-Rite hitches are $$...over a grand at cost, I believe. And you'll only tow that one trailer.
For bigger trailers, T/H and cargo, get Dynamic Sway control and Weight Distribution. That will save you from the sway that happens, especially with tiny little Expeditions, etc...
Or you can just buy a nice Ford E350 dually diesel bus...Cost me one tenth of the cost of what most people have. My living quarters are mobile. 8)
QuoteFor bigger trailers, T/H and cargo, get Dynamic Sway control and Weight Distribution. That will save you from the sway that happens, especially with tiny little Expeditions, etc...
SuperDave talked me into going with a weight distribution and dynamic sway control setup. Got it about 50% installed now... I'll have it done tonight, we're going to Topeka with it. I'll let everyone know how well it works... but from those I've spoken to, it's supposed to be DA BOMB.
QuoteSuperDave talked me into going with a weight distribution and dynamic sway control setup. Got it about 50% installed now... I'll have it done tonight, we're going to Topeka with it. I'll let everyone know how well it works... but from those I've spoken to, it's supposed to be DA BOMB.
You have a 'V' nose trailer also don't you? Mine is a 8.5 x 26 and I made the mistake of not ordering the welded on brackets for the weight distribution system and the ones I have seen at the trailer/RV places won't work with mine. It sucks that I bought a weight ditribution system and can't use it without fabricating some special brackets, but since my current truck does well pulling it without, I haven't fab'ed anything up.
QuoteYou have a 'V' nose trailer also don't you? Mine is a 8.5 x 26 and I made the mistake of not ordering the welded on brackets for the weight distribution system and the ones I have seen at the trailer/RV places won't work with mine. It sucks that I bought a weight ditribution system and can't use it without fabricating some special brackets, but since my current truck does well pulling it without, I haven't fab'ed anything up.
Nope. No V-nose.
http://www.kingpinracing.com/Pics/trailer/Trailer.htm
Our weight distribution kit was just a bolt-on (as opposed to weld-on.) We had to move some of the wiring harness to get it to fit, but overall it's been a pretty simple installation so far. The only thing I wasn't too crazy about, is that since the trailer uses a box-tube frame, we had to use (per the instructions) self-tapping bolts to mount the brackets. But it wasn't bad... I'm just glad we didn't cross-thread anything.
QuotePull-Rite hitches are $$...over a grand at cost, I believe. And you'll only tow that one trailer.
I don't believe that's correct. The price part is. Yes, they're expensive. But with a Pull-rite installed, you can hook up to any bumper pull trailer and get the benefit. The Pullrite works just like a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch, except upside down. It still puts the trailer's weight right over the rear axle, which is what eliminates the sway. The Pull-rite just does it from underneath the bed, instead of on top.
The other option, which is equivalent in performance is the Hensley Arrow. Maybe that's what you're thinking of, Dave. But it's even more expensive. That installs on the trailer tongue. So, with that, anybody can pull the trailer, with no sway problems, but your tow vehicle can only pull that one trailer with no sway problems. Any other trailer would need its own anti-sway solution.
All that said, I could be wrong about any of it, as I don't own either and have never towed with either. I've just been doing a lot of shopping lately.
- Stu
Quote I am going thru this very thing in upgrading my plate from 'B' to 'D' this week. I called the Illinois Secretary of State Police Department here in Rockford Illinois and asked a bunch of questions about truck plates. According to them you don't have to get the twice a year truck inspections until you go to an 'F' plate and don't need the medical card either. If you look at the truck book at the drivers facility they lead you to believe that you need those things for 'D' plates too. Also I was told the cost of the plate is $138 per year currently and only renews in July if I remember correctly, so I will be pro-rated for what's left on my current plate toward the new 'D' plate which will be in it's last quarter of use.
I want to be legal, but when things are not made clear at the driver's license facility itself it really makes it difficult! :-/
I must correct my previous post about price for the 'D' plate here in Illinois. I said it was $138, which is correct, it WAS $138, but now it is as Jeff said and it's $188 per year! :o Along With my $110 per year for trailer plates this is rediculous! >:( >:( >:(
QuoteI don't believe that's correct. The price part is. Yes, they're expensive. But with a Pull-rite installed, you can hook up to any bumper pull trailer and get the benefit.
You'd have to take all the weight distributing equipement and anti-sway control from the trailer you use and then put it on the other trailer. You've got to have the ball height correct, the weight distributing correct, and the sway part set...otherwise you'd have the pivot point moving near the rear axle and at the ball.
We're a dealer for the stuff. I looked at it for my E350 bus...but it sits really low on a van...it would drag on the ground with my bus if I went into like a gas station with an odd entry.
The Pull-Rite set up is cool...
http://pullrite.com