OK, I Got my Lic last year at Loudon on my 1000rr, now I plan on ridding all year long in 2008.
I am looking to buy either a GSXR 600 or a 750 but I am trying to figure out which one to buy depending on how many races I can do on the weekend.
I want to buy the bike thats gonna give me the most time on the track.
Can you experts on classes let me know how many classes I can run the GSXR 600 on and how many Classes I can run the GSXR 750 on? An which classes they are and what bike are part of them.
I plan on racing at Loudon only and maybe one or two weekends some where else.
I have a few weekends on my belt but on the Latin American (Dominican Republic track).
Thanks in advance,
Dee
Well, since you can ride "up" in class, technically the middleweights can race in more classes since they can run in MW, HW, UL, and GTU and GTO. The 750 can only run in HW & UL and GTO. However, you should ask yourself how well you can realistically run in any of those classes. For example, if you're very good, then riding a 600 against 750's and 1000's at Jennings might not be a big problem, but if you're average and you want to run a 600 against 1000's at Daytona or Homestead, then you might have problems. Of course, if you're really only interested in getting a lot of practice this year and not going for the Win, then 600's will let you run in more classes and since winning isn't a realistic possibility then the mechanical disadvantage won't matter, since you're really just out there for "practice." However, consider that there will be fast riders in all of those categories, and if you're not very fast yet then you don't want to pose a danger to yourself or other riders by being too slow on the track.
Also, the other factor to consider is skill. If you are just getting started, then you might want to start with a 600 anyway until you really get a feel for controlling the bike and avoiding things like highsides, run-offs, etc.
How fast are you? If you're not already moderately fast then I'd suggest starting with the 600 as your chances of winning right away are low anyway, you can ride in more classes and thus more races and thus get more practice, and it won't be too much bike. If you're already experience and moderately quick, then the 750 is good because you already know what you're doing and you can still do a bunch of races every weekend, typically at least 5 (UL SS, HW SS, UL SB, HW SB, GTO). 5 races is a lot, especially if they're all in the same day (as would be the case in the Florida region, for example) and if you're doing everything by yourself such as changing tires, etc.
Just my 2 cents.
How much money do you have for tires and entry fees? If you have an unlimited budget, yeah, the 600 will allow you more classes, and you will need more tires.
Loudon is pretty small, and you'll probably do about the same lap time on each bike.
Thanks for the answers.
I guess I should also asked what classes you recommend for me as a novice on a 600 or a 750
I want to learn and I dont want to get blown away.
Quote from: Hustla on January 29, 2008, 02:12:46 PM
Thanks for the answers.
I guess I should also asked what classes you recommend for me as a novice on a 600 or a 750
I want to learn and I don't want to get blown away.
Here is my thoughts, get the 600 and race everything you can afford. Your going to get blown away (unless you are the next Rossi/Hayden) anyway no matter which bike you get. You should be competitive against 750's at least, and some 1000's. Most armatures cant ride 1000's fast, they are just a handfull to start with.
Get the 600 and do MW and HW and GTU, then enter and UL race and see how you feel. Remember that the HW and UL usually are combined races with the experts, where the MW classes are usually all armature races. You'll have 6 races at least on the 600 and if you do UL's you'll have 10 races.
That should be plenty of time on the track.
I'm not sure that they combine many amateur races with the experts/juniors at Loudon. Maybe the GT races, but LRRS is very good about keeping things segregated for speed/safety reasons.
get a lightweight bike if you want to learn alot :biggrin:
I agree w/ LilJay, get a 600. You can ride MW SS & SB, and GTU. If you find that there are too many entries in those classes for your comfort, you can try HW, where there are usually fewer entries in my experience. And if you have a big appetite and want to ride a bunch of races every weekend, you can always ride up in class. As others pointed out, on some tracks (e.g., Loudon) you'll even be faster on a 600.
I've never ridden in a LW class, but I hear that they are really good for learning because to ride them well you have to focus on fundamentals since you can't make up for mistakes with power so easily as you can on bigger bikes.
Guys thanks alot for all the help... A 600 is what I am getting... I'm going to pick one up this weekend.
Anyone know where I can send my forks to get adjusted to my weight? what about rear suspension.
I'm not rich and cant afford real suspension right now.
Get the correct rate springs for your weight racing. Keep it simple. Deal with the bike then using preload and geometry adjustments to the forks and the rear shock. You won't have the advantage of really nice dampening, but really nice dampening with the wrong springs is garbage. Probably cost $150 to $280 or so. Kind of depends upon your weight and the bike you got. The stock rates are all over the map.
If the front spring rates are the same on the 08 as the 07 GSXR 600 you can most likely leave them stock for your first year. just get a shock with a rear spring for your weight. Heck, many experts ran GSXRs with mainly stock internals and went damn fast.
I know the stock rates for the '06/'07 is appropriate for 220# rider.
If you do need the front re-sprung, I would recommend sending them to ThermosMan if you're going to ship them out. Otherwise, there are often vendors at races (like GMD) who could do it for you there, which would save you shipping $, but you'd be well off to call them and make sure that they have the time to do it for you on a particular weekend. The advantage to doing it at the track is that they can help you set up the basics (preload and sag, rebound, compression).
However, as people have pointed out, unless you're over 220# then you're OK with the stock front, so long as you set it up properly for preload, rebound, and compression. I think that GMD will do it at the track for you for something like $50, or you can find someone who knows what they're doing to help you out. I don't know how heavy the rear spring is rated for, but changing the spring on that if necessary isn't a big deal either.
My experience is that when you do get money to work on your bike, the first thing you should do is suspension, and start with the front. You'll get the most bang for your buck and it, more than anything else (e.g., engine work), will improve your times. I had the front done on my 06 GSX-R750 by ThermosMan at Jennings one WERA weekend and it really made a huge difference. I took them off, gave them to him, and when he gave them back to me I just installed them back in with the top of the forks flush to the upper triple clamp and it was set up very well. I took it back to him later and everything was just about perfect, so I guess that if you send it to him in the mail that you might have similar results. I got the 20mm Ohlins (because 25mm was a lot more money and I heard from several very fast guys who use the 20mm that they're great and good enough), and it cost me $700 at the track.
Quote from: kl3640 on January 31, 2008, 02:21:08 AM
However, as people have pointed out, unless you're over 220# then you're OK with the stock front, so long as you set it up properly for preload, rebound, and compression.
I'm going to redirect what you're trying to say about my post.
If you're 160 or even 190, it's too stiff. Rate is rate. Put F150 springs on a WRX, it's gonna suck. This is an opportunity to figure it out reasonably close and have a decent opportunity to make the bike work right for a very reasonable cost.
Springs MUST be considered as the part of the baseline foundation of set up. Miss that, and you're just setting things up around wrong.
Taking preload out of a spring that is too still is going to still make it too stiff. Similarly, adding a ton of preload to a spring that is way to soft is not going to increase the rate, unless everything some one does is so messed up that the coils actually touch, but then the rate increases
dramatically.
Well my current weight is 220 right now so I guess Im good for now. All I need is a rear spring I guess.
is 220 with the gear on or just my regular weight with out gear?
Quote from: Super Dave on January 31, 2008, 07:24:43 AM
I'm going to redirect what you're trying to say about my post.
If you're 160 or even 190, it's too stiff. Rate is rate. Put F150 springs on a WRX, it's gonna suck. This is an opportunity to figure it out reasonably close and have a decent opportunity to make the bike work right for a very reasonable cost.
Springs MUST be considered as the part of the baseline foundation of set up. Miss that, and you're just setting things up around wrong.
Taking preload out of a spring that is too still is going to still make it too stiff. Similarly, adding a ton of preload to a spring that is way to soft is not going to increase the rate, unless everything some one does is so messed up that the coils actually touch, but then the rate increases dramatically.
Sorry, you're absolutely correct and I should have been clear. What I meant was that he'd be OK with ONLY changing spring rate and settings IF he is 220# or less, as opposed to revalving or new cartridges, etc., being that he doesn't have the funds for full suspension work right now. Or that if he's in that weight range (which he is), that he may be able to adjust the stock setup. If he's significantly over that, then it may need more than just springs to work OK. Sorry for the misleading post.
And to answer Hustla's question, I believe that total weight is what is considered, including all gear, etc. If you've lowered the other sprung weight in the course of race-prepping the bike, then that may give you more margin, but probably not much.
OK guys I picked up an 06 GSXR 600. I bought a Penske triple clicker with a 550 spring.
(The penske guy said for my weight it should be 550).
Since I'm a novice this year I want to race against guys on my experience level (Maybe I can get up front somewhere).
I'm going to Loudon this weekend and I will have GMD help me out setting up the bike.
I will also have RobsDyno tune my bike.
Here are my choices:
Saturday: Nv MW SB, Nv HW Supersport, Nv LW Supersport, Nv LW Sportsman
Sunday: Nv GTO-GTU-GTL, Nv MW GP, Nv Ultralite SB, Nv HW SB, Nv LW Gran Prix, Nv Super Singles, LW SB, Formula 40, Formula 40 Lights
I thought I had the classes figured out but I'm still confused on what I can ride with the 06 GSXR600
Is there a place where they have all the classes with what bikes (Something like Racing for Dummies) LOL
I just looked at raceloudon.com and I think I figured out what classes I can ride on Sat and Sun.
Saturday: Nv MW SB, Nv HW Supersport, Nv MW Supersport
Sunday: Nv MW GP, Formula 40
Is this correct?
It should be in full gear.. Helmet,leathers,gloves, and boots... anything you will be wearing while riding.