Anyone got any tips on how to remove the keyed ignition cylinder from the triple clamp on a honda RC51? The bolts are some sort of tamper-proof design where you can tighten them but not loosen (the wrench backs itself out of the head of the bolt if I try to remove the bolts).. They're recessed too far into a hole for me to get a dremel tool in there and make a slot/use a screwdriver..
Ideas?
IF you haven't mangled them too bad yet, they are simple screws but have a weird head. I believe you can get the right head at Sears, just take the triple with you.
HEAT the spots with a torch (mildly). They're on with permanent lock-tite.
That's been the ticket for the 600's over the years anyhow... And I don't see that they'd do anything too different for the arsey...
I will tell you the fix for this in short order. With upper skins removed.....
Got a Dremmel? Using the fiber cutting disk;
Make a single deep cut across the head of each tamper proof bolt. NOW insert a healthy flat head screwdriver into slot, Vice- grips clamped to driver and turn. (Lefty lousy) If your having a problem finding the jump, ask and yea shall receive :cheers:
As for heating this area.....would you burn tires in the fireplace? They dont use that much thread lock. (kind of like bearing grease.) I guess they figure this stuff is comming off as soon as it leaves the store. so why bother.
A "do-dad switch" can be installed at the ignitions plug You will have to test meter that. I cannot remember without going out and looking which two color wires are used. It was very easy to find. I mounted the switch to the clip-on's. It was very small,hidden, and well protected by the intake.
Smack the head with a center punch, drill it out and extract it with an extractor. Replace with a hex head bolt and call it a day.
Do the cornerworkers a favor and leave it where it is. Sucks ass trying to pick up a bike thats leaking gas and has a hot electrical system and is sparking that you cant shut off because someone moved the ignition switch and you cant find it (kill switch only kills teh motor, not the main electrical power).
Quote from: Woofentino Pugrossi on October 29, 2007, 02:08:07 AM
Do the cornerworkers a favor and leave it where it is. Sucks ass trying to pick up a bike thats leaking gas and has a hot electrical system and is sparking that you cant shut off because someone moved the ignition switch and you cant find it (kill switch only kills teh motor, not the main electrical power).
Unless you wire the kill switch to shut off all the power.
But I guess you should know, being the expert at ass sucking and all.
Or just replace the key with a switch, in the same location, right Jeff... :biggrin:
My kill switch cuts all power. Seemed simpler that way.
After switching out the stock ingnition with a two-wire togal switch it will usually act that way also "My kill switch cuts all power".
One thing to keep in mind... DO NOT SKIMP on your connections or the switch. Buy a GOOD quality switch (figure around $10 if not more), get a dust-boot for it, solder all connections and then coat it with silicone.
If you don't, you'll get dust into it and end up with a bike dying at a time you don't want it to (like on the 2 board). I speak from experience...
(Jason, keep an eye on that switch and if the dust boot wears, replace it immediately. Don't dick around with it)
Quote from: Jeff on November 13, 2007, 12:34:06 PM
(Jason, keep an eye on that switch and if the dust boot wears, replace it immediately. Don't dick around with it)
Already did.. I tore the boot at Road A this year. Replaced it with a sealed hazardous location switch and threw a new boot over it.
Smart man... :thumb:
wire the handle bar kill switch to be the ignition switch, you will have to test the stock switch though, Suzukis and Kawasakis need a resistor inline with some wires as well as the normal power wires
That is correct. The Kawasaki & Suzuki ignitions need a resistor inline when you wire them. It's theft prevenative system. That way if someone were to just cut the wire harness they can't get the bike to fire because it would be sending too many volts back to the ECU. The ECU would then stop the ignition & fuel from working. It needs the right amount of voltage to the ECU being sent back on one wire or it won't work.
If you have a Kit blackbox installed the resistor doesn't need to be in place since your obviously racing the bike anyways. There is a little wiring trick to getting it to work properly to the kill switch. Cutting & resoldering a few wires will have to be done to make that work.
Yep, the older Honda's have the same thing, but it's a separate line (pink) which needs a 3.9v zener diode.
anything wrong with leaving the key switch on the bike?
my old bike and 04 r6 when i bought it ,it was race prepped already and the guy who wired it made it so just the kill switch was the only switch and i had to charge the battery every week because they didn't wire it correctly. i did find where they screwed up and just put another switch on the bike. either one shut the bike off but the second one shut off all the power like the key switch would have.
so any way my 07 still has the key should i leave it or put in a switch?
Quote from: Garywc on December 20, 2007, 02:31:23 PM
anything wrong with leaving the key switch on the bike?
Nope nothing wrong with leaving it on the bike.
Just don't forget the key at home or you will be hating yourself all weekend. :banghead:
I have seen crashed bikes with the key broken off in the switch.
Yeah...that sucks too.
i have thought of that happening i hope it doesn't but if it does then i guess i will take the switch off then