Could I be working at cross purposes if I bleed from both the upper banjo bolt and the lower caliper nipple? In other words, could I be just pushing a bubble between the two if I don't spend enough time at one end or the other to get it all the way out?
Hey Don, I think we've met but never introduced.
Here's what I do for tough bleeds;
tools; Mity Vac and a large ( Veterinary) syringe.
Pull the master cylinder resevoir cover, use syringe or M.V. to suck out old brake fluid from top of resevoir down to where it is at the bottom of res.. Fill the Vet. syringe with your fresh fluid and push it UP from the caliper bleed nipple, until the fluid in the M.C. resevoir is full. Now, work the magic with the Mity-Vac from the bottom at the caliper bleed nipple, refreshing the res. container on top until clean fluid comes out the bottom.
If this is a complete tangent from where you had intended for the help to come from, or go to, carry on... :cheers:
Thanks, this one's a little mushier than I like it. No mighty vac in the toolkit so I'll keep going at it after I mash it around a bit. I have a feeling it needs to move some air up to the master but I might just be less patient than I used to be.
Maybe try the old zip tie the brake lever overnight trick? Sometimes allows the air bubbles to gradually make their way up through the system to the master cylinder...
You might try taking the caliper off and holding it so that the bleeder is the highest point in the system and bleed that way. I also like to place a rubber hose on the bleed nipple and submerge it in clean brake fluid so that it is impossible to draw air back in through the bleeder nipple. Also do everything very gently so as not to break any existing air bubbles into smaller, harder to remove bubbles.
To answer your question, YES... you could easily be pushing a bubble between the two.
If you're still mushy at Topeka, come find me and I'll try to help you.
Put a zip tie on it and bring it to Topeka. Let the road bounce it all around and move the bubbles up and out into the master cylinder. Let your drive do some work for you.
just don't crank the zip-tie super-tight. it just needs to crack the valve open.
if you suspect you got any air just drain it and start over... this happend when i was bleeding the new brembo calipers and for the life of me it would still be a bit mushy now matter how much i used the vacuum... so drained it all out and started over and now its rock solid in a good way... also when bleeding the mc if you just pull the lever in and out it may not get the bubbles stuck in the mc... i found that by tapping it and quick movements helps free up the bubbles...
Thanks guys, I rode it around a bit, tied it overnight, bled it again and it's much better. I prolly would have been better off sticking with one end or the other and being a little more patient. Can't make Topeka but I'll see you all at BHF in a couple weeks.
We'll donate in your name at Baby Dolls.
I always start with a full resevoir and start at the top bango bolt. crack the top bango twice and then do the same at the lower banjo's. Then I will move to the bleader screws after that. Have always had good results like this and brakes are solid. Try it next time, it may help
Quote from: Super Dave on April 23, 2007, 07:47:49 PM
We'll donate in your name at Baby Dolls.
There are sooo many ways I could go with that...all I'll say is just remember that you get the same view for $1 as for $5...