I just installed new hot bodies race plastics on my 06 ZX10r. The right bottom fairing is making contact with the pipes and is causing the paint to bubble up. Does anyone have solution to this problem? Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
heat wrap, rivet a metal plate which can dissipate the heat, or (like everyone else), ignore it.
Brian McLaughlin? Where you at?
I think that Brian said that he has ran a few beads of high temp silicone along the area. I can see where it would kind of keep it out of direct contact and stuff. Never did it myself, but I remember Brian mentioning it.
Quote from: Super Dave on November 28, 2006, 12:16:49 PM
Brian McLaughlin? Where you at?
I think that Brian said that he has ran a few beads of high temp silicone along the area. I can see where it would kind of keep it out of direct contact and stuff. Never did it myself, but I remember Brian mentioning it.
I've used the high temp silicone stuff also. Worked for me. I think it was Brian that gave me the idea also.
you can get those heat resistant stick on sheets like what comes on the factory stuff for around $8
I have the smart arse solution... buy sharkskinz
Dood. Hotbodies is what it is... I have yet to have a set of hotbodies fit correctly, or without issues. So what I do is: realize there are issues and do the best I can with what I got.
I have been told that you can use a heat gun to mold the glass a lil bit. I guess it softens the resin enough to be able to manipulate it! Or just do what Jeff said!
I heat wrapped it, and that did help alot. Now I am afraid that it will continue to heat the fiberglass to the point it makes a hole and then I would not be able to race, right? Anywho, thanks a million for the advice I will try all of the above mentioned, minus the sharkskinz. Thanks.
Quote from: Super Dave on November 28, 2006, 12:16:49 PM
Brian McLaughlin? Where you at?
I think that Brian said that he has ran a few beads of high temp silicone along the area. I can see where it would kind of keep it out of direct contact and stuff. Never did it myself, but I remember Brian mentioning it.
Here I am, been sick the last couple days.
Yes, use high temp RTV from any auto store. Lay beads about 3/8" in diameter about an inch apart. Lay the beads perpendicular to the exhaust pipe. Replace as needed.
Problem with wrapping pipes is it can affect how the pipe works (depending upon where the pipe is wrapped).
WARNING : NEVER wrap a titanium exhaust pipe. It is possible to get the pipe hot enough to oxidize. When this happens, the Ti will transform into a yellow powder.
I've been using the cloth exhaust wrap, but I don't put it on the pipe. Instead, I cut strips of the cloth off the roll and glue it to the inside of the lower fairing. The fiberglass has to be spotless for the glue to stick, so I really clean the hell out of it with carb cleaner before I try to glue down the cloth.
I've used it all up now, but the glue I was using was called Goop or Gloop or Glop, something like that. I'd originally bought it to glue down a loose seam on my car's convertable top, one of its recommended uses. I got it off the chemicals shelves at the local Auto Zone.
This fix has allowed me to run xero lrearence for an entire season, with only discolored paint as a result.