Anyone have one yet? We were playing with ours last night and had the bodywork off of it, and for some reason the low oil light comes on when you have the turnsignals unpluged....I thought the bike was made so that you could take of the turn's and lic plate for a track day? Hopefully we will have an exhaust to dyno with next week.....
You got one, eh?
You bet..... Rode her last night for the first time....I think she has 40 miles on the clock.....
Bah, break it in on the track. Better ring seal.
I'm gonna do a ride toworrow....Pat would like anywhere from 150 - 300 miles on the clock so that we can dyno this coming week..I think my buddy and I are gonna make a trip to the Mississipi River. Yesterday I ordered an exhaust,engine covers,clip ons,bodywork and a fairing bracket...Have you seen how they interegrated the air induction into the stock bracket??? We still need to get some other bits, but I think we have a good start......
Hey Scotty,
you have yours already!! :)
Still waiting for mine.
How is it?
Keep me informed on the dyno/race parts stuff.
Thanks
Paul
Polar-Optics LLc
Who is making a fairing bracket for it? I'd like to get a GP Tech for mine but was just on their site and didn't see one.
Do you have yours as well Scott (R1, owner)?
Paul
Polar-Optics
QuoteDo you have yours as well Scott (R1, owner)?
Paul
Polar-Optics
Not yet Paul. I'm in line for the 2nd blue one. I called on Friday and am being told it is scheduled for April. That's cutting it kind of close to get ready for the May BHF race! It also doesn't look like there's enough room in the tail section for my camcorder! :)
Hey, just bought a copy of RRW and saw you placed 3rd in F40 at the ROC, congrats!
I take it you're waiting on one as well?
Yeah, Thanks!
Sold the 05 at Daytona so the new 06 makes sense.
I'm planning to actually set this one up, no more headlights and yellow tape etc..... :P
Not going to try to make Road America in April?
I know the weather typically sucks but that place is such a blast!!
Paul
Polar-Optics
QuoteYeah, Thanks!
Sold the 05 at Daytona so the new 06 makes sense.
I'm planning to actually set this one up, no more headlights and yellow tape etc..... :P
Not going to try to make Road America in April?
I know the weather typically sucks but that place is such a blast!!
Paul
Polar-Optics
Cool! No way am I going to that place (RA) in April!!! hehe...
My wife is from Waukesha so I think she wouldn't mind it, but I grew up mostly in VA and CA, so that is not my kind of enjoyable environment!
I don't blame you, sure would be nice if we could get a date in summer.
oh well, maybe next year..............
QuoteYesterday I ordered an exhaust,engine covers,clip ons,bodywork and a fairing bracket...
What kind of Exhaust and Covers did you get? Graves? What about fairing stay?
Can you confirm/deny the rumor that 05 Wheels will fit on the 06?
Hopefully mine will be here in the next few weeks...
:-/
QuoteWhat kind of Exhaust and Covers did you get? Graves? What about fairing stay?
Can you confirm/deny the rumor that 05 Wheels will fit on the 06?
Hopefully mine will be here in the next few weeks...
:-/
Some guy on the wera board said he ran his 05 wheels on his 06. I think there was something about the cush drive rubber being a little firmer in the 06's
I got my ride in yesterday....BRRRRR!!!!!!!!! We did about 160 miles, so the bike has a total of 220 something.....
This is what is on order for delivery this week:
Graves Full system
Graves Engine covers
Graves clip on's
YoYoDyne/Sebimoto Body work
YoYoDyne Fairing bracket
Note: Most if not all of the company's have waiting lists or are already into backorders so if your planning on getting one of these bikes I suggest getting stuff on order ASAP...
------------------------------------------------------------
After we uncrated the bike and preped it we did our spec check's and this is what we came up with....
Gearing from 05' to 06' SAME - front splines and sprocket width is the same - Rear inner diameter is the same - rear bolt pattern and spacing is the same.
Wheels - we haven't measured hub width from left to right yet but look the same - overall size of the wheel's are the same. They look like you can use your 05' stuff...
Caliaper's - Same
Pad's - Front are different compound - Rear look the same
Rotors - front overall diameter I think is the same, but the 06's are thinner - Rear looks to be the same.
Everything else - Not even close....
We put about 45-50 miles on it and did the first oil change, while the bodywork was off Pat started the bike to cycle the oil...While doing so the low oil light came on.....WTF...It didn't make sense - So he checked to make sure that the bike was full,which it was, but still the light was on.... Put the bodywork on and plugged in the turn signals - Magic - no low oil light......
Going to the Dyno sometime this week....Should be fun....
Oh and by the way - Compared to my 04 GSXR 600 - This thing is a missile. There was one thing that threw me off tho - usually I can ride and shift by ear(not looking at the tach) But because this thing revs so high it threw me off big time.... Rock solid and steady through the turns, very light and flickable from side to side, it feels like you are sitting right on top of the front wheel.Very tight and compact...But at the same time you can tuck in really far - lots of room to scoot back....And the brakes, man after they came in a bit - WOW....I can't wait for some race pads and braided lines.... Also noteable - the guys I was riding with had an 05'R1, an 04' GSXR600 and an 04' R6 - Riding with a heavy cross wind when the guys were in front of me I felt like I was weaving from side to side... So I pulled in front of them to see if they noticed, and sure enough they asked me what I was trying to do......I think it may be because the bikes overall wheelbase is shorter, But i'm not sure...
Hows midrange?
Let's put it this way, a roll-on at 55 mph in fifth gear the thing pulls HARD.....Most 600's would either slowly accelerate or slowly accelerate..... Below 10,500 RPM the thing pulls harder then my last 600 but as soon as it hit's 10.5 the thing takes off even harder(thats where the real power comes on)....
great write up scotty, keep em coming as you get further along!!! still patiently awaiting my delivery as well....
QuoteWho is making a fairing bracket for it? I'd like to get a GP Tech for mine but was just on their site and didn't see one.
I would imagine morse would have one ready when they get the body done... Rob you got anything on this?
I talked to Scott Morse at Morse custom Fiberglass(GP Composites) on Wednesday of last week and he said that they had just taken delivery of the bike that same day and that the should have the bodywork done by the end of the month and the fairing bracket before the bodywork......I have used both the bodywork and fairing bracket on my Suzuki last season and loved both....
"Also noteable - the guys I was riding with had an 05'R1, an 04' GSXR600 and an 04' R6 - Riding with a heavy cross wind when the guys were in front of me I felt like I was weaving from side to side... So I pulled in front of them to see if they noticed, and sure enough they asked me what I was trying to do......I think it may be because the bikes overall wheelbase is shorter, But i'm not sure... "
Scott,
sounds like set up and stability may be a little more critical on the new 6. I'll bet diff. tires will drive some chassis set up changes as well. (not that they didn't before).
Let us know how the dyno work goes.
Thanks
Paul
Polar-Optics
Hey Scotty!
About your oil light,....
I was workin on my buddie's 636 and after the oilchange the oil light came on.
BE CAREFUL! YOU HAVE NO oilpressure!!!!
What i did, I took the oilfilter down, fill up and than i put it back. After than everything was OK.
Maybe im not right, but i just want to make sure.
Allso you can check it easy.
You have the little oil window. Start the bike up, and if your oil level is gonna be the same that means you dont have any pressure at all.
If everything is OK, the oil suppose to be gone from the window.
I hope i can help you with this little info.
Also congrats for your new bike!!
Some Yamaha's use the oil light for oil level. Never be afraid of the owners manual.
Gonna be Dyno-ing tonight, so I should have some sort of numbers to post tomorrow....That is if I can get up to make it to work, our dyno guy (Brian Westphal of Win Racing) Works strange hours - night hours.... Later
QuoteGonna be Dyno-ing tonight, so I should have some sort of numbers to post tomorrow....That is if I can get up to make it to work, our dyno guy (Brian Westphal of Win Racing) Works strange hours - night hours.... Later
Bet his neighbors love him. :)
His shop is in an industrial park, but it backs up to some houses...I didn't get home till about 2 this morning and had to be up at 5:30, but sometimes that's what it takes....So anyways we ended up getting 110.4hp..........Looks promising, we will be trying a couple exhaust systems in the next few weeks....I will try to update as we know....
What kind of dyno? Correction factor?
Now don't hold me to this....And I will have the correct answers for you later today, maybe even a dyno chart...But it was a DynoJet Dyno (250?) with all the current updates & I think it was in SAE correction.... Brian is going to email me the charts later today...
Oh yeah - I almost forgot... The Graves exhaust,engine covers and clip-on's showed up yesterday so we are going to mount that stuff tonight, and the Sebimoto bodywork and fairing bracket showed up as well. Although I haven't had a chance to look at anything yet... :(
Something to compare it too :)
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=99767
Dont bother reading past the 1st page as in true WERA BBS style it turns to shit ;D
Hey Scott,
check you PM's when you get a chance.
I have a ? about your bike purchase.
Paul
Polar-Optics
Dyno-ing again on Tuesday with Graves full system and Techlusion TFI Box.......
Alright, I have some dyno charts...But I don't know how to post them..I think I need to host them on some sort of web page and then add the link..... Help?????
ok so what' did she put down. ;D
I'm buyin' and RD350. Much more power.
QuoteI'm buyin' and RD350. Much more power.
heck I'm gonna ditch the 06 R6 and get a H2 ;D
Bone stock - pump 93 octane Shell - 110.3HP - 43.6 max torque
Graves full system - Motocard(like a powercommander), pump 93 octane Shell - 115.4 HP - 45.7 max torque
It's getting there......
these things are gonna be fast all set up. ;D
I can't wait to ride mine
Right now the R6 has more HP then My Suzuki ever had last season...... And we don't even have race gas in it........
So, SD: No new R6 for you?
Looks like the rumors I heard that the 18K RPM tach was just marketing are correct, looking at the dyno.
Thanks Scotty,
Outstanding!!
If you need a place to host them, you can email them to me and I'll host them.
Paul
Polar-Optics
QuoteAlright, I have some dyno charts...But I don't know how to post them..I think I need to host them on some sort of web page and then add the link..... Help?????
send em to me, I can host em on a friends site.
tstruyk at msn dot com
QuoteSo, SD: No new R6 for you?
Looks like the rumors I heard that the 18K RPM tach was just marketing are correct, looking at the dyno.
I believe with mods you can utilize the full range... not in stock form though no...
QuoteSo, SD: No new R6 for you?
Looks like the rumors I heard that the 18K RPM tach was just marketing are correct, looking at the dyno.
Very true, the tach says your at 17.5 but the dyno says otherwise - I think it was 16.2.....or 16.8 - something like that...Either way it's no 17.5.......We'll see if we can change that tho ;D
Scotty, Brian's dyno is a DynoJet 150 and the redline is at 16.2K.
Chuck
The new R6 rocks, just off the dyno.
153 HP
57 lb ft
MR10
17,300 redline
let's rock
Thanks Chuck
Looks like I have some work to do......
QuoteThe new R6 rocks, just off the dyno.
153 HP
57 lb ft
MR10
17,300 redline
let's rock
Chuck I just got off the phone with Mikey and he was finishing up the Body work today or tomorrow... So it looks like I will be going up there to pick it up next weekend.....
KEWL!!! :D
Are you going to Graham's during the week or shall we do lunch?
QuoteChuck I just got off the phone with Mikey and he was finishing up the Body work today or tomorrow... So it looks like I will be going up there to pick it up next weekend.....
So what do you guys think of the 06 R6 front forks?
What about the information from MAX in this thread?
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=101451
Does it matter? Get on the bike and ride it. I won races before there was cartridge forks. I won races with only springs in stock forks. There are lots of ways to skin a cat.
QuoteDoes it matter? Get on the bike and ride it. I won races before there was cartridge forks. I won races with only springs in stock forks. There are lots of ways to skin a cat.
Oh come on...You of all people knows the value of a good setup...
At a minimum I must re-spring due to my weight...
Come on now SD... ;D
QuoteOh come on...You of all people knows the value of a good setup...
At a minimum I must re-spring due to my weight...
Good set up is key, but if I may...I think Dave is trying to say that suspension is so far advanced these days that you should worry about the necessities first, overall bike setup, handeling, springs and your riding - once you get those sorted then worry about the valving..... Dave let me know if im sticking my nose in where it doesn't belong...
Don't get me wrong - I have to have my springs changed too.....If it were up to me and we had a bunch of off season tests - I would like to be able to ride the bike with stock forks and then with them all set up so that you get a good overall idea of what the bike is capable of and then what effects the changes made....
But not having those oppertunities available almost forces you to take a shot in the dark.....
QuoteGood set up is key, but if I may...I think Dave is trying to say that suspension is so far advanced these days that you should worry about the necessities first, overall bike setup, handeling, springs and your riding - once you get those sorted then worry about the valving..... Dave let me know if im sticking my nose in where it doesn't belong...
Don't get me wrong - I have to have my springs changed too.....If it were up to me and we had a bunch of off season tests - I would like to be able to ride the bike with stock forks and then with them all set up so that you get a good overall idea of what the bike is capable of and then what effects the changes made....
But not having those oppertunities available almost forces you to take a shot in the dark.....
I hear you 100%...
What are you doing to your Front End Scotty? I've had my R6 for a few weeks now and have been working on it pretty hard...
Got the Graves Exhaust installed, PG Rearsets, Yoyodyne Fairing Stay, Graves Case Covers, waiting on a bunch of Vortex Stuff...
What are you doing for bodywork? Talked to sharkskinz and they are about 2-3 weeks out still for me...
QuoteI hear you 100%...
What are you doing to your Front End Scotty? I've had my R6 for a few weeks now and have been working on it pretty hard...
Got the Graves Exhaust installed, PG Rearsets, Yoyodyne Fairing Stay, Graves Case Covers, waiting on a bunch of Vortex Stuff...
What are you doing for bodywork? Talked to sharkskinz and they are about 2-3 weeks out still for me...
As far as the front end goes, Just shipped the front end off today to Thermosman, we are gonna do the 25mm kit - rear end is gonna be an Ohlins unit as well but we are waiting on Mike to get back from a test with Mr . Eric Bostrom for the final shim stack settings and then that will be good to go... Right now we have a Graves exhaust system,Graves engine covers, Yoyodyne fairing bracket, Sebimoto bodywork(off @ painter), Motocard(like Powercommander), waiting on Vortex gearing and rearsets(rear, trying to figure out the quickshifter thing.....
QuoteAs far as the front end goes, Just shipped the front end off today to Thermosman, we are gonna do the 25mm kit - rear end is gonna be an Ohlins unit as well but we are waiting on Mike to get back from a test with Mr . Eric Bostrom for the final shim stack settings and then that will be good to go... Right now we have a Graves exhaust system,Graves engine covers, Yoyodyne fairing bracket, Sebimoto bodywork(off @ painter), Motocard(like Powercommander), waiting on Vortex gearing and rearsets(rear, trying to figure out the quickshifter thing.....
Sounds like you and I will have close to the same bike
;D
I don't have my PC3 or Ignition Module or Quickshifter yet, so I am still on hold for all that...
I do have the Graves Exhaust installed, and the Case Covers...
I am going with an Ohlins setup, Front and Rear Also, and an Ohlins Steering Damper...But have not recieved any of that stuff yet either...
Daytona, looks pretty grim for me >:(
No Daytona for me, cost's too much cash. Pat my mechanic made a bracket to mount our Ohlins damper from last year....We should be going down south to do some testing in a month or so.....We'll see..........
You're doin' just fine, Scott! ;D
Geometry, Springs, then you can add dampening.
WHAZZUP Scotty? why no posty? Did you stop bolting stuff on the R6 or do you just have so much HP you don`t want to tell? ;D
Sorry, we last dyno'd Thursday night before we left for the Indy dealer show.....Micron system with PowerCommander got us to 118.3HP on a 4th gear pull on pump gas.......I think the Graves got us 115 and change so it was about a 3HP gain...Not bad.....Anyone need a Graves system????
Just got the forks and shock back from Thermos Man, we stuck the forks on and are mounting the shock tomorrow along with some quick shifter(not sure on the brand).
Can't wait to shake the bike down - heading to Barber for the Nesba day on the 4th of next month...I'll try to keep the updates coming.....
Oh yeah we also had one of our buddies CNC us some brackets to eliminate the stock kickstand mount so that we can just bold the shift lever to the new bracket until we get a set of rearsets(we can use them as backups also). They are just the unfinished pieces but we have the detail finishing work to do so they look nice and lose some weight..
Wow,
That rocks Scotty!
Where did you get your Micron?
Haven't seen the full systems around yet.
Keep the posts comin'
Paul
Polar-Optics
Dyno charts:
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=37819772&imageID=518493439&Mytoken=6E53CD80-1440-13B7-FFD910FF267507F132421891
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=37819772&imageID=518492863&Mytoken=6E53CD80-1440-13B7-FFD910FF267507F132421891
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=37819772&imageID=518493439&Mytoken=6E53CD80-1440-13B7-FFD910FF267507F132421891
Hope you enjoy
Paul the Micron system we have is one of two in the country, we are doing the Dyno testing for Micron US and the other is with Micron at the Dealer shows.... Funny thing is the Power Commander that we got was so new that it didn't come in a box or even have any stickers or lettering on it....
Wow Scotty,
w/micron and PC 100hp from 11,2 up and 110hp from 12,2 up........ :o
(https://www.ccsforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.polar-optics.com%2Fphotogallery%2FDyno%2520Chart%2520Micron%2520HP0022.jpg&hash=2896bacd738e49da1805c6c1118ae941c57d9bf8)
how much hp are you going to lose when they change the scale from STD back to SAE ;D
Quotehow much hp are you going to lose when they change the scale from STD back to SAE ;D
I know what you mean - but I am not so concerned with the peak HP number as I am with the power curve.... We use the Dyno more as a tool to tailor the power delivery, instead of using as a gauge to measure a peak HP number. It is irrelevant weather you measure in STD/SAE etc, as long as you have a point of reference to adjust from...A lot of dyno guys will try to sell you on the STD reading so they can get you all excited and hopefully rake in the cash.....
Here is the thing that I am excited about - the fact that my 2004 GSXR 600 that I was racing last season, bone stock was 96.?HP - and at it's best made 114.?HP - on the same dyno in darn near the same weather conditions...Now that was after a butt load of money and countless hours of working and tuning. This Yamaha was at 109.?HP stock and 118.? with an exhaust and fuel adjustment(on pump fuel)....And from what it looks like we have quite a bit of room to work with yet..... So irregardless of the correction factor we are still making a good amount of power over my last steed......
yeah just giving you shit ;D
it amazes me how caught up people get in a number, different bikes, different dynos, different days etc all make a huge difference but like you said having a power curve you can use is the main thing 8)
Just got back from Barber on the new bike.....I like -I like - I like....Very tight and compact, Nimble yet stable. At first the bike wanted to turn in too quick and kept trying to run up the inside of the curbiing, So we took one of our two ride height spacers(2.5mm) out of the rear so that we were 2.5mm up from stock(the shock is so short that Ohlins didn't have room to put and adjuster on the unit itself.
This cured our problem for the time being, But cresting the top of the hills on the power where it flattens out while banked over was upsetting the front end - making the front slightly push and shake. So we ended up taking two turns of rebound out of the forks so they would stay in contact with the pavement better. It worked but didn't eliminate the problem so we took out two more, the bike started pushing toward the outside of turns - so we put the two turns back in and left it at that(much better then earlier)....
We were trying to find a happy medium with the rear so that we had good feel but at the same time didn't spin the tire too much. At the beginning of the weekend the bike was spinning the tire quite a bit so we took some spring out of the rear and also some compression so the bike would squat and hook up more - which it did, Then I had to worry about the wheelies the bike was pulling....
Under braking the bike is rock stable. The brakes aren't quite as powerful on inital bite as the Zuk I'm used to but more controlable - which I feel is a good trade off.... "Slipper ckutch I love you", I had never ridden with a slipper before and I was worried that I would have a freewheeling effect entering corners...Complete opposite, the clutch allowed me to bang the downshifts as quick as I could and not have any rear wheel hop. Just a slight squirm/wag from side to side and that was it. The slipper allowed me to wait longer the normal to downshift which in turn allowed my to drive into the corners harder and longer....... Also, I didn't have to worry about trying to feed the clutch on corner entrance to set the bike(unless I was banked over while catching a downshift)....
Nice...Scotty, are you running stock MC and Lines? I am sure you have installed SS Lines, but wondering if you are running a Upgrade Brembo MC?
It appears the stock MC on the 06 R6 is the same as my R1, and I did not care for it on my R1 and replaced it with a 19x18 Brembo, also on the new R6...Braking was much better on the R1 with the new MC...
What tires were you running? And what about your Fork Tubes, did you have them flush with the Triple? I know Stock, mine were raised 3mm from the factory...
Mike
QuoteJust got back from Barber on the new bike.....I like -I like - I like....Very tight and compact, Nimble yet stable. At first the bike wanted to turn in too quick and kept trying to run up the inside of the curbiing, So we took one of our two ride height spacers(2.5mm) out of the rear so that we were 2.5mm up from stock(the shock is so short that Ohlins didn't have room to put and adjuster on the unit itself.
This cured our problem for the time being, But cresting the top of the hills on the power where it flattens out while banked over was upsetting the front end - making the front slightly push and shake. So we ended up taking two turns of rebound out of the forks so they would stay in contact with the pavement better. It worked but didn't eliminate the problem so we took out two more, the bike started pushing toward the outside of turns - so we put the two turns back in and left it at that(much better then earlier)....
We were trying to find a happy medium with the rear so that we had good feel but at the same time didn't spin the tire too much. At the beginning of the weekend the bike was spinning the tire quite a bit so we took some spring out of the rear and also some compression so the bike would squat and hook up more - which it did, Then I had to worry about the wheelies the bike was pulling....
Under braking the bike is rock stable. The brakes aren't quite as powerful on inital bite as the Zuk I'm used to but more controlable - which I feel is a good trade off.... "Slipper ckutch I love you", I had never ridden with a slipper before and I was worried that I would have a freewheeling effect entering corners...Complete opposite, the clutch allowed me to bang the downshifts as quick as I could and not have any rear wheel hop. Just a slight squirm/wag from side to side and that was it. The slipper allowed me to wait longer the normal to downshift which in turn allowed my to drive into the corners harder and longer....... Also, I didn't have to worry about trying to feed the clutch on corner entrance to set the bike(unless I was banked over while catching a downshift)....
In the motor department, this thing is a monster....I ate 600's down the straight and could even reel in bigger bikes if I drafted or had a better drive off of turns.. It likes to wheelie and it pulls hard. Also, ear plugs are a must - @ 10K it sounds like it's at 16K - I wouldn't be able to stand the noise if the exhaust without them....
We tried two different fuels and two different Injection control systems - "motocard" and "Power Commander PC3", along with VP U4 and RTech. The VP worked well, pulling harder out of the corners and up the hills then the 93 BP pump fuel - but the RTech pulled so much harder that we had to take two teeth off the rear sprocket because we were running into the rev limiter before the end of the straights.... We started the weekend off with the Motocard, which was adjusted for the Graves system(we were using the Micron system on the bike at the track).
The bike ran great with this setup but at maintenance throttle the Motocard acted more like an on/off switch instead of a rheostat....Making it hard to operate the throttle in small openings....With the PC3 making .8HP more on the dyno and almost the same power curve there was not much difference in the power between the two units. Although the PC3 allowed me to operate the throttle with more confidence at more lean angle and while descending a downhill corner.I think we are going to be using the Motocard because it has an accelerator pump feature, where the Power Commander doesn't. Plus we think that we can adjust the card to make ore power and a better curve if we tune it to the Micron system....
The Fly-by-Wire throttle worked flawlessly, I thought it was going to be harder to modulate the throttle because it was a stiffer pull then what I'm used to. It ended up working out better then I thought, the stiffer pull made it less likley to accidentally whack the throttle while leaned over in a maintenance throttle situation(harder to highside), or while hitting choppy pavement.....Also, I didn't notice the difference in the pull being harder to use or making my arm more tired....
Overall - the bike is great in my opinion, the bike is a very good racing package, the motor is more then I had last year, the bike is very neutral with it's set up and it has all the little goddies that make a bike appealing to a large group of people. Sure I would like to have my motor done so that I am on a closer playing field with the other guys that are having their motor's done(they know who they are). But I think that if you can compete with the faster bikes on a slower bike then it just means that you were riding better then they were...
There is still more we need to do: Paint, Rearsets,Quick shifter,Liquorice despensor,Dyno with race fuel.
Till then I'm out
http://www.powercommander.com/accelpump.shtml
USB Power Commander Accelerator Pump Utility
Dynojet is pleased to announce a new "Accelerator Pump" feature for all USB Power Commanders
This is a FREE upgrade that can be installed into any USB Power Commander
using the accelerator pump feature usually isnt a good idea on a race bike (all it does is use a lot of fuel), but if you know what you are doing you can set the powercommander up to make the bike feel like butter when it comes back on the gas from a closed throttle.
600's are easy to do, big v-twins suck out of the box but they can be fixed with a little time
QuoteNice...Scotty, are you running stock MC and Lines? I am sure you have installed SS Lines, but wondering if you are running a Upgrade Brembo MC?
It appears the stock MC on the 06 R6 is the same as my R1, and I did not care for it on my R1 and replaced it with a 19x18 Brembo, also on the new R6...Braking was much better on the R1 with the new MC...
What tires were you running? And what about your Fork Tubes, did you have them flush with the Triple? I know Stock, mine were raised 3mm from the factory...
Mike
I have the stock master , with Galfer braided lines front and rear, Vesrah Super RJL's....The brakes didn't quite have the inital bite that I was used to with the Suzuki, but the Yamaha was easier to modulate. I don't know weather it is the master cylinder or the metal that the rotors are made out of....I know that the Zuk rotors are more porous then the Yami - but not sure if thats the issue....
I can say this, I like the Yami brakes better because on the Zuk, under hard braking I used to occasionally lock the front wheel if I were to grabby on the lever - the Yamaha doesn't do this.
Tires - I was using the Michelin PR-5 rear and a PR-C front...The rear worked as expected, lasted both days and toward the end of the second day I was having fun sliding the bike around a bit.We had a PR-3 that we were going to throw on to see if the extra stick of the softer tire required a different set up in the suspension dept, but we decided to save the tire for another day and just burn up the 5.
In the front, the new PR-C was golden. Toward the end of last season we were given a special compound front tire to try, it was supposed to take care of the issues that many of us had with the PR fronts.Long story short - the new tire works as good or better then the special tire I ran last season. It has a taller sidewall then the PR's and a different shape to it, easy to turn in, easy to roll from side to side and excellent grip at any lean angle. I never once got that tire to do anything unexpected of funny - it did everything I asked of it and you can brake hard all the way to the apex of the turn if needed... This front tire is one thing that I am totally stoked about, especially after the way last season's front tire worked....Or didn't work for that matter
Mike, do you measure the front fork tubes from the top of the fork cap or from the top of the fork tube just below the cap? We go from the top of the fork tube. We ran the test this past weekend with the top of the fork tubes flush with the triple - The bike seemed stable yet nimble, so we left it where it was.. The only ride height adjustment we had to make was to the rear by lowering it one shim size - so that we had only one shim between the clevis and the upper shock mount...
Scotty,
I noticed the exact same thing with the Vesrah's on my R1 last year...They are a great pad, but do not have the inital bite that you are refering to...But offer smooth and consistant braking...
I found that the Carbone Lorraine's do have that inital bite that I like and also offer the same smooth and consistant braking that the vesrah's also have...
The big issue that I ran into with the CL's is that they 100% suck in the Rain (due to the need for them to be very hot to work well) and had to switch back to my stockers for better braking...
You may want to try the CL's on your R6, as I can attest to the same performance with the Vesrah's on my R1 Rotors (which are the same material as the R6) and the CL's really have the inital bite that I like...
QuoteI have the stock master , with Galfer braided lines front and rear, Vesrah Super RJL's....The brakes didn't quite have the inital bite that I was used to with the Suzuki, but the Yamaha was easier to modulate. I don't know weather it is the master cylinder or the metal that the rotors are made out of....I know that the Zuk rotors are more porous then the Yami - but not sure if thats the issue....
I can say this, I like the Yami brakes better because on the Zuk, under hard braking I used to occasionally lock the front wheel if I were to grabby on the lever - the Yamaha doesn't do this.
Tires - I was using the Michelin PR-5 rear and a PR-C front...The rear worked as expected, lasted both days and toward the end of the second day I was having fun sliding the bike around a bit.We had a PR-3 that we were going to throw on to see if the extra stick of the softer tire required a different set up in the suspension dept, but we decided to save the tire for another day and just burn up the 5.
In the front, the new PR-C was golden. Toward the end of last season we were given a special compound front tire to try, it was supposed to take care of the issues that many of us had with the PR fronts.Long story short - the new tire works as good or better then the special tire I ran last season. It has a taller sidewall then the PR's and a different shape to it, easy to turn in, easy to roll from side to side and excellent grip at any lean angle. I never once got that tire to do anything unexpected of funny - it did everything I asked of it and you can brake hard all the way to the apex of the turn if needed... This front tire is one thing that I am totally stoked about, especially after the way last season's front tire worked....Or didn't work for that matter
I measure the same way...
I know I read on the WERA board that when using the PRC Front, that they recommend raising the forks 4-5mm in the trees due to the higher profile...'
I am excited the throw my leg over it...My 1st day on it will he Heartland Park on the 10th of April...New Layout and Pavement...I am excited...
My Sharkskinz finally shipped on Monday, so I should be good to go soon...
Will you be at Road America next month?
QuoteMike, do you measure the front fork tubes from the top of the fork cap or from the top of the fork tube just below the cap? We go from the top of the fork tube. We ran the test this past weekend with the top of the fork tubes flush with the triple - The bike seemed stable yet nimble, so we left it where it was.. The only ride height adjustment we had to make was to the rear by lowering it one shim size - so that we had only one shim between the clevis and the upper shock mount...
Instead of lowering the front, we raised the rear 5mm. That's when we ended up finding out that the rear was jacked up to high, and brought it down the one shim size - I think it's 2.5m or 2mm can't remember for sure.....With the two shims (5mm) it wanted to turn too quick and run up the inside of turns without holding a line. After removing the one shim it was good to go... April 10th - Are you refering to Super Dave's school? If so, I will be instructing with Dave this season. So I will be at HTP that day - we can meet in person..Maybe compare bikes....Also - I will be at Road America for the CCS/ASRA races, I was going to go down to Barber for the AMA race - mainly because I don't like riding in the cold weather/snow... I will have more of a chance at finishing in the money @ the ASRA races then @ the AMA Supersport or FX races, So that was the main reason for the decision....It also gives me more setup info for the AMA round later this year - I am bad at making those sort of decisions - so I have Dave to thank for helping come to the choice of Road A....
QuoteInstead of lowering the front, we raised the rear 5mm. That's when we ended up finding out that the rear was jacked up to high, and brought it down the one shim size - I think it's 2.5m or 2mm can't remember for sure.....With the two shims (5mm) it wanted to turn too quick and run up the inside of turns without holding a line. After removing the one shim it was good to go... April 10th - Are you refering to Super Dave's school? If so, I will be instructing with Dave this season. So I will be at HTP that day - we can meet in person..Maybe compare bikes....Also - I will be at Road America for the CCS/ASRA races, I was going to go down to Barber for the AMA race - mainly because I don't like riding in the cold weather/snow... I will have more of a chance at finishing in the money @ the ASRA races then @ the AMA Supersport or FX races, So that was the main reason for the decision....It also gives me more setup info for the AMA round later this year - I am bad at making those sort of decisions - so I have Dave to thank for helping come to the choice of Road A....
Yes, I will be at the Track Day April 10th...But I didn't realize that it was a SD Class Day...
That is cool...Yeah man, I look forward to meeting you..My bike is currently getting worked on, so I'll be good to go hopefully soon...
Hit me up at michaelsimone@kc.rr.com we can chat offline about some things I have learned...
;D
I got my Sharkskinz for the R6 today...I don't see what the big deal is with the rear numbers...
There is plenty of room to have 6" numbers on the Rear and still be legal...
I test fitted my numbers on there today and they fit 100% fine...
I placed the Tail next to my R1 Tail and it is comparable in size....
BTW...These plastics are awesome...Flawless...
I have an R6 too, now.
Here's a question...
On the stock body work...there's those goofy lower tubes...do they go on the race body work or what?
Mike, I have schools at every HPT track operated track day. Only one is a Visionsports' Racer University though.
QuoteI have an R6 too, now.
Here's a question...
On the stock body work...there's those goofy lower tubes...do they go on the race body work or what?
What goofy lower tubes? ???
There are plastic tubes that move air from kind of the lower area of the bike on either side toward the inside area of the motor. They attach themselves to the stock body work via two screws.
Were hard for me to miss as they weren't on the prior R6.
QuoteThere are plastic tubes that move air from kind of the lower area of the bike on either side toward the inside area of the motor. They attach themselves to the stock body work via two screws.
Were hard for me to miss as they weren't on the prior R6.
??? ??? ???
Dude, I seriously have no idea what you are talking about...I don't remember seeing those during my tear down at all...And I don't see them in my parts pile...
Pics? I am lost...Scotty, know what he is taking about? :-/
Yeah, The tubes are bolted to the stock side fairings. They draw fresh air from in front of the radiator and direct it toward the rear of the cylinder...The race plastic I have does have a spot to put the tubes but doesn't have any provisions for mounting..You would have to either rivit or glue the tubes to the bodywork...We didn't use them when we went to Barber - but brought them along incase there was some sort of overheating issues..We didn't have any issues come up so we never installed them...Maybe on a hot day something could come up - but i'm not sure.... Mike in reguards to your tail section - they must of used a different shape then then the plastic I have because my tail section is shaped exactley like the stock one, and i'm not so sure that I can get my numbers to fit(I haven't tried yet but I will as soon as I get some paint on there)...
Ok...
Is this the piece? Probably why I missed it...Hopefully don't need it since I sold all the stock bodywork and this peice along with it all... :-/
Scotty, do you have Sharkskinz? I just test fitted my number on there and it appears they will work ok...It will be close... 5" numbers would fit w/o any issues...
(https://www.ccsforum.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.teamsimoneracing.com%2Ftsr_images%2Frandom%2FIMG_3847.jpg&hash=79e4198f92bf199263ce6c71ca52baeac0d0408b)
I have Sebimoto bodywork.....Did you sell your stuff on Ebay, or how did you get rid of it????I need to do they same thing asap......If you wouldn't mind telling me, how much did you get for it so I have an Idea as to what I should ask...???
QuoteI have Sebimoto bodywork.....Did you sell your stuff on Ebay, or how did you get rid of it????I need to do they same thing asap......If you wouldn't mind telling me, how much did you get for it so I have an Idea as to what I should ask...???
I sold it to a local guy who is in the Parts business...
I sold it for $1100.00...With lights and fairing stay
Probably could have gotten more if I would have held out longer, but I wanted the stuff out of my garage and it payed for my Race Bodywork and then some so...
Plus he is know for having parts and since he can make a few hundred easy on the deal when he re sells it over the next few months a piece at a time of E-Bay if I need something I'll get the hook-up... ;)
Who'd you sell it to down there?
Leaving monday...
And that's the piece, Mike.
It feeds the jambinator bearings with ram air induction. The first run of R6's came with a larger ID and lost velocity...which caused them to loose 2000RPM's on top...mine revs to 18500...LOL!
QuoteWho'd you sell it to down there?
Leaving monday...
And that's the piece, Mike.
It feeds the jambinator bearings with ram air induction. The first run of R6's came with a larger ID and lost velocity...which caused them to loose 2000RPM's on top...mine revs to 18500...LOL!
Mine will Rev to 20,000 once Jim is done with it... :o
I sold it do Dean at D2Cycles... ;)
Roger that...would he be interested in more? ph#
QuoteWe tried two different fuels and two different Injection control systems - "motocard" and "Power Commander PC3", along with VP U4 and RTech. The VP worked well, pulling harder out of the corners and up the hills then the 93 BP pump fuel - but the RTech pulled so much harder that we had to take two teeth off the rear sprocket because we were running into the rev limiter before the end of the straights....
have you done any more testing with the RTech vs VP fuel? Which Rtech fuel are you using (Outlaw or prov.1).
thanks
We are using the ProV1. No we haven't dyno'd with the RTech at all yet. We had tried the stuff last season at a race weekend and then after talking to an AMA engine builder that we are going to leave nameless, decided to give it a shot...From what our buddy told us, while doing back to back pulls on the dyno(not sure what brands he compared - you would have to talk to my mechanic), the RTech worked the best......We will be hitting the dyno within the next couple weeks, before the second weekend of April thats for sure.......
thanks dude,
From what I gather from Ricci the Prov.1 is like the MR9 and Outlaw like U4 right?
VP prices are getting out of control (again) and I always like to try new things, be a little different :)
Let me know (if you can) what sort of gains/comparisons there are to the VP
Pro v is comparable to MR9 and The outlaw stuff(haven't tried it) is like a U4... As soon as I get some hard facts on the gains I will let you know....
Hopefully we will have the bodywork mounted on the bike tonight - Picked it up from the painter on Saturday.....I will try to get some pics as soon as I can......Going to the dyno on Thursday or Friday - We will be testing out the Rtech fuel and the quick shifter.......Oh and were also installing a Turbo/w NOS....SHHHHH - don't tell anyone!!!!
So here we go......We were Sitting there scratching our heads one night last week...The bike would only start and run for about two seconds before dying out..Huh this just didn't seem right - we unplugged the Power Commander that we had hooked in and the thing was totaly dead - no power at all -no fuel pump - no tach - no starter - no gauge lights - well other then the neutral light.....After a bit searching and testing by Pat, Graham and Howard - They found a second ground wire that goes to the back of the motor that they missed hooking up(I guess were still learning about the Yami's)..So they hooked the ground back up and the thing started and ran(I was not there when they got it running) - So it was off to the dyno to see what she was gonna put down.....We had to wait for my guy Brian to finish up with a Blackbird that he was tuning - when I got there the Bird was pumping out 210 HP - by the time they were done it was @ 308HP...They could have gotten more, but hey it's one for some spode to ride on the street.....We threw the R6 on the Dyno and wow - it was running like total shit - every once and a while it didn't want to Idle - It sounded dead and muffled - picked up RPM very slowley and was making about 5HP less in some area's of the power curve....HHHMMMM - something has to be wrong , but what??? At first we thought it was bad gas, so I went down to the gas station and got new fuel - we picked up about 1 HP..We pulled the Codes out of the ECM and there were three - the first was #19 Sidestand switch - then #22 Air temp sensor - and #23 Barometric pressure sensor.....We didn't get out of there until about THREE in the morning - Got home about 3:30 and went to sleep about 4 - I had to be up at 1/4 to 6 - gotta love the fact that there is only 24hr in a day.....So after work I took the bike to DGY and drug a new bike off the showroom - after testing all of the sensors and the sidestand switch(all turned out to be fine) & unsucessfuly trying to clear the codes out of the system - we had basically narrowed it down to either the wiring harness or the ECM....So since it is easier to switch the ECM - I did just that...After starting the bike and letting the idle come down to normal - it sounded better then the night before and didn't do anything stupid.....No codes either.....So we ordered up a stock ECM - it would be nice if the Kit YEC one would show up but were still waiting....
Here is our theory - for whatever it's worth: With the ground wire not hooked up the bike would not do anything - which ment "Idiot - something is wrong here" and when we hooked the Power Commander in - it somehow allowed the system to find a ground and backfeed through to the ECM - Thus frying it and turning it into a $1000.00 useless paperweight.....So we will be hitting the Dyno Wednesday night as long as the new box shows up in time....and then it's off to HPT to help Dave with the Vision Sports Riding School next weekend....I am going over to DGY after work here today and changing the rear tire, filing down the cheese grater Vortex foot pegs and mounting the bodywork(finally got it from the painter).....Oh and by the way the RTech fuel made a little over 5HP gain even though the ECM was messed up and everytime we tried adjusting the Power Commander nothing happened(for better or worse)...We ended up at like 119.?HP - So I am excited to see what the outcome of the next sesion is going to be.....TaTa
Oops - almost forgot - The StarLane quick shifter did work. But it needs some more adjusting - we figured out the amount of kill time we need but forgot to set the neutral position of the sensor along with the extended positions...oops - i'll do that next week.......
Scotty, You might want to indicate what correction factor you are using when expressing Horsepower #'s.
Remember SAE is the standard that is usually used, especially in the United States.
Other correction factors used, like STD will read higher than SAE. It all depends on the day how much, hence the correction factor, but higher none the less. I have seen STD read 3-5 HP higher than SAE.
With the Dynojet softwware, it is very easy to switch between the correction factors.