SV Cranks

Started by EX_#76, July 21, 2006, 03:49:15 PM

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L8brake731

S. Fukiage
CCS/ASRA  #731

Protein Filled

He was probably talking about www.RonAyers.com. They have them for $498.00

Quote from: AM_#76 on August 03, 2006, 02:27:22 PM

Thanks for the info.  Matt Mcnoll told me about some internet based company where you could buy cranks for a similar price.  I lost the paper that I wrote the sight's name on. 

Matt,  Can you post the name of that sight for all to see.

Guy


Edgar Dorn #81 - Numbskullz Racing, Mason Racin Tires, Michelin, Lithium Motorsports



Don't give up on your dreams! If an illiterate like K3 can write a book, imagine what you can do!

EX_#76

Numbskulz.....  You are a god damn genious!!!
Guy Bartz
MW EX #76
Mass Reduction LLC Home of the Grip Doctor

GSXR RACER MIKE

Quote from: grasshopper on August 03, 2006, 03:53:51 PMWe need a tool and die maker with some extra time on his hands to start making good strong SV cranks. The things are hard to come by.

Just because I'm a Tool & Die Maker doesn't mean I have the equipment to machine cranks.  :biggrin:  LOL

Anyways, cranks are ground after Heat Treat, if the heat treater warped them they are idiots (which I find hard to believe if this is the heat treater that does this type of work for them on a regular basis) or the material had flaws/stress/bad grain structure, or the hack that machined them before Heat Treat cut the areas to be ground too close to the finish size by accident or was trying to cheat and save time by leaving minimal material to grind after Heat treat. Leaving minimal grinding stock is a real gamble, especially on something so irregularly shaped as a crankshaft. Do any of you know if they use forged blanks for their cranks or do they machine them from a solid piece? If from a solid piece they should be normalizing and/or stress relieving the blank once it has been machined down to relatively close to it's finished size/shape from the original solid piece of steel, this allows the blank to relax the built up stresses from the grain being interupted when they machined out all the material.

Blaming the Heat Treater is a common cop-out that is often times not true, but that's not to say it doesn't happen. My money would be on the crank manufacturer getting burned by cutting the blank too close to the finished dimensions before heat treat and then it changed more then they anticipated during the heat treat process.  8)
Smites are a cowards way of feeling brave!   :jerkoff:
Mike Williams - 2 GSXR 750's
Former MW Region Expert #58
Racing exclusively with CCS since '96
MODERATOR

ekraft84

I just skimmed the thread here, but I would not use a 2nd generation crank for anything.  The first gen cranks are different and more reliable.  Something about Suzuki using a harder metal coating on it from what I've been told.

I would think you could find a salvage yard or somewhere to get one cheap ..
Eddie Kraft - #48
Witchkraft Racing
Honda East Racing - Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Aprilia

catman

Lovin my  2   "00" SV's more everyday!john

L8brake731

Hey Mike:

Thanks for the info on metallurgy. After reading your post, my bet is with you on the "finish tolerances".
Still looking for a crank or two..... :ahhh:
S. Fukiage
CCS/ASRA  #731

grasshopper

Isn't there a little Japanese Suzuki Engineer here that can answer all of Mikes questions?? :err:

matt49g

Matt McNall
MW  EX #302
SV650
2006 Great Plains Champion
         Amateur LW-Formula 40
         Amateur Light-Weight Grand Prix
         Amateur Supertwins

matt49g

Dang! I hate electronic communication, anyway I just got around to reading this thread, the place I got my crank is Ron Ayers Motorsports.  It was $512. or something close to that with the shipping.  It took about ten days to get it and it came with the entire range of shims to adjust endplay.  I honestly think it beats the daylights out of gambling $2-300 on a used one of uncertain quality.
Matt
Matt McNall
MW  EX #302
SV650
2006 Great Plains Champion
         Amateur LW-Formula 40
         Amateur Light-Weight Grand Prix
         Amateur Supertwins

grasshopper

Quote from: matt49g on August 08, 2006, 09:49:24 PM
Dang! I hate electronic communication, anyway I just got around to reading this thread, the place I got my crank is Ron Ayers Motorsports.  It was $512. or something close to that with the shipping.  It took about ten days to get it and it came with the entire range of shims to adjust endplay.  I honestly think it beats the daylights out of gambling $2-300 on a used one of uncertain quality.
Matt

Agreed.

But, do you have a used one you want to get ride of? I've spun rod bearings on 2 cranks and was able to salvage both. We used the next smaller babbet bearing. The cranks were not scored badly at all. Clean them up and put the motor back together.

EX_#76

Quote from: grasshopper on August 09, 2006, 11:04:29 AM
Agreed.

But, do you have a used one you want to get ride of? I've spun rod bearings on 2 cranks and was able to salvage both. We used the next smaller babbet bearing. The cranks were not scored badly at all. Clean them up and put the motor back together.

Did you have the cranks that you salvaged reground?  How far undersized was the damaged journal?
Guy Bartz
MW EX #76
Mass Reduction LLC Home of the Grip Doctor