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Author Topic: Rearsets  (Read 1431 times)

JBraun

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Re: Rearsets
« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2009, 12:14:04 AM »
I have to stick up for their customer service as well. I have a story:
Woodcraft shipped a set of 08-09 R6 bodywork to a racer for the CCS weekend at Daytona. When he got there and opened it he found that Armour Bodies put a 06-07 lower in the box.
Woodcraft called Rob at Lithium because he knew we had a set, but it was here in Green Bay, WI.  They didn't care, they said ship it next day air at any cost. I sent it out that night and the UPS bill was over $250!! I talked to Jan the next day and she didn't bat an eye. There is MAYBE $150 margin in that bodywork but Woodcraft lost their ass because it was the right thing to do. Sounds pretty good to me.
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PIRELLI

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Re: Rearsets
« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2009, 12:21:58 PM »
Why are folding pegs a no-no for racing?  Is it that they provide additional protection for the bike when it's down or is it more the danger of trapping a rider with the bike?

Not crazy about Woodcraft in general.  Good product but no customer service.

I would not say they are a no-no.  I do not think there is a safety issue.  I use folding pegs, and I have not had any issues with getting trapped by them, you are much more likely to be trapped by the engine or frame than folding pegs.  I think folding pegs are more forgiving when you touch them on the track or a curb ect.  If you touch a solid peg down on something, you are far more likely to have an issue upsetting the bike and or crashing.  Some feel that they prevent damage to the bike in a crash by supporting the bike up off of the pavement.  The solid pegs can also dig into the dirt and start the bike tumbling.  Solid pegs are cheaper and easier to manufacture than folding pegs.
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funsizeracing

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Re: Rearsets
« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2009, 12:31:40 PM »
This is the way I do it.  I buy a piece of 6" x 12" x 1/2" aluminum, I draw the outline with a Sharpy Pen, then I cut out the outlines on a band saw, then I drill mounting and peg holes.

I also like to leave a little meat of the 1st iteration to add different holes in case I'm not happy with the position.  The whole process costs about $20 and takes about 2 hours, which includes lathing and knurling rigid pegs.

They look uglier than homemade sin, but work great.

How do you do the knurling? 
Becka
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Xian_13

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Re: Rearsets
« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2009, 04:20:47 PM »
How do you do the knurling? 
A Knurling tool.

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123user

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Re: Rearsets
« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2009, 05:27:53 PM »
How do you do the knurling? 

On a hockey rink, with a broom... oh wait no... on a lathe with knurling tool. 

I think the positives about solid pegs do outweight the negatives.  Guy is right about them digging in, but they also can save parts and can help scrub off a lot speed while their in contact with the pavement.  I ground 1.5 inches off of one during my feat of acrobatics at RA in 2007- Guy was there... supposedly it was awesome!  The solid peg did its job in that case.

 

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